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Look for the filling loop (silver braided flexi hose) normally under the boiler. Open one or both valves a raise pressure to 1 on the guage. Bleed all rads and repeat. Turn boiler back on and all will be well in Glasgow :) Previous answer was better!

Laser temperature guages will only work on non reflective surfaces. If you want to measure the temp of copper, chrome etc you must put a bit of masking tape or similar on it. If you want to check the machine, point it at the palm of your hand, you should get a reading of 29-31 degrees.

Why? if it was installed correctly then it is the manufacturers responsibility to ensure that their product works. IMO, no manufacturer is going to thank an installer for fiddling around with a boiler during the warranty period.

Valves open in a clockwise direction.

Personally I always fit programmable thermostats with combis and don't normally bother to install the mechanical clock, or certainly not pay extra for one if it isn't included. You are perfectly right in what you say, and the boiler isn't on 24/7 - it's just waiting for a demand for heating...

It's full of sludgey stuff that will ruin your carpet Take it off & outside, remembering the above Stick a hose in it, turn hose on Bash it with a mallet or kick it Put it back on, still remembering the above

You shouldn't need to (or want to) dig up the soil pipe. The leak is from the connection from the WC to the soil pipe. It can be replaced with plastic, there are a huge variety of pan connectors available. Your difficulty may come with sealing the plastic to cast iron. You can seal it with...

I was in HRPC getting a gas valve so I thought I'd get a single 15mm lockshield from the Plumb Centre at the same time - they tried to charge me £4.65 which is about £3 more than I usually pay. I voted with my feet.

Bleed it and then top up the pressure via the filling loop on the boiler. Bring the pressure up to about 1 bar on the guage.

That is the most informative diagram I have ever seen :) Why not take a photo of the unconnected pipe ends and post it? or better still another diagram!

Yes, but what about this porpoise you mentioned?

I didn't think the cold permeated the hot that much. I was under the impression that there was a pretty well defined layer of hot & cold. Am I being daft?

You can seal it up with rapid setting cement. I wouldn't fancy chopping 4" off the CI soil pipe though, have you thought of making an attractive, not to mention useful shelf feature for the 4" difference?

Anyone know where I can get them relatively cheaply? Cheers

I lay absolutely no claim to being clever (a bit of a thicky actually), but I seriously doubt whether any conventional combi could power a multi jet shower. Maybe a storage combi could as long as you didn't spend too much time in it. As to your radiator problem, it sounds like you may have a...

Its the normal way to do it. One end should be sealed (but never is in my experience) and the outer sleeve made good appropriately (sand and cement normally). I'm not sure if plastic is an appripriate material, but to be honest I can't think why it wouldn't be.

I don't think your diagram really represents what your system actually looks like. However, the purpose of the thermostatic valve is to regulate the temperature of water entering the heating coil and thus controlling your DHW temperature. You see them on systems without motorised valves...

What has that got to do with primatic cylinders exactly?

There is really only one way to tell :)

Best stat in the world!