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You must open the bleed screw to purge the air and prime the pump. Full instructions here .... http://www.tritonshowers.co.uk/installation/pdf_2/1-existing/T90si_UK_Guide.pdf

I was thinking more of something like a smallbore flexible pipe that I could use to suck up from anywhere - e.g. after stuffing down the DHW outlet of a HWC etc. Mind you, the self cutting W/M feed sounds OK, just whack it onto a hosepipe and away you go.

I've had a few jobs lately where it is necessary to drain down tanks, cylinders etc but have found that the drain offs are either not fitted, don't work at all or work very slowly. Usually I would syphon out but am looking for a faster method. I've tried those drill attachments and found them...

Come on! some of you brainboxes must be able to help! :D

How did you create that schematic?

As far as I know, it's now compulsary under part "L" to upgrade all controls when "carrying out work". How many customers would stand for it though? none that I know of. "Change your room stat madam?, certainly, I room stat, 6 TRV's, 1 new factory lagged cylinder - £700 all in"

Hi Have to go and replace a couple of 11" heaters in central London tomorrow evening. The owner has sent me some photos of his setup. We have successfully established over the phone that he has voltage to both heaters and both are open circuit. It appears to be a thermal store system...

All of the unvented cylinders that I've put in have had pressure reducing valves supplied set to 3 bar, so I wouldn't worry too much about being reduced to 2.5. So what if you can't run 2 showers similtaneously? you'd soon run out of hot water anyway!

There won't be straight swap but it's easy enough to do. From what you describe the existing stat is switched on via the programmer which in turn sends power to the valve. It doesn't sound like it goes back to the wiring centre, but as I can't see it then obviously I don't know. The existing...

Did you buy a programmable thermostat or just a stat? You are attempting to replace a 230/240V stat with a volt free relay which means you are going to have to do a bit of work to get it working. If it's just a digital stat then you are going to have to use the relay to provide a switched...

I've been caught like this before and have gone out and got a 3/8 to 15mm connector and then found the supplied one in the bottom of the box! - check the packing again :)

Ensure that a roomstat suitable for a combi is fitted. Ensure that all all rads except that closest to the stat have TRVs fitted Check the docs for flue installation compliance

Usually it's the APS which is next in sequence after the fan. You shouldn't really be doing this yourself though .........

Your easiest solution might be to put a large(ish) capacity cold water cistern in the loft and pipe this up to the boiler, attaching a single impeller pump. This would give you decent hot water pressure without having to do too much major re-plumbing work.

Shouldn't that be .... "smell of gas, bang, wet pants" ?

Sorry to accuse you of trolling bmx, my suspicious cynical nature :D P.S. The g3 exam is by far the easiest examination in the world to take, easier than getting an A* gcse (according to the daily mail)

That's odd. I could swear that I put down 15 litres on my exam paper :)

For goodness sake, can't you recognise trolling? :D :D :D :D :D

So presumably with just HW the boiler will either trip out or shut down in a matter of seconds? if not, the heat must be going somewhere - is there a bypass on your system anywhere?

My sentiments exactly!