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This picture the profiles look like they're going to stop him finishing the part of the joints directly behind. So if he isn't finished does he take the profile down, do the pointing then put it back the next day to carry on with the wall? I suppose there's no other way to do it.

If the brickwork on the left is an extension coming off the neighbors house then that corner must be on the neighbors side of the boundary line. Unless they've built that wall of the extension right up to the centre line of the two houses. Are you allowed to build right on the boundary line...

Hi all. When a bricklayer uses profiles for his stringline, how does he finish the bit of mortar behind the profiles? By the time he takes down the profile the mortar will likely be fully hardened so he won't be able to strike it with a jointer. It will look different to the other joints.

That's interesting, thanks.

Does cutting a notch at an angle instead of 90 degrees really make it stronger? I've never heard of that before.

One idea I had was to cut the base out of the brackets, fold up some channels in 2mm galvanised steel and weld them to the brackets. I'm a sheet metal worker so altering the brackets wouldn't be a problem. Cutting the base of the brackets out would be though. It will be very difficult to get in...

I though about fixing new brackets alongside the originals set at the height I want. So the joists move along a few inches from where they are now. Fixing new brackets though I'm not sure how id do that given the originals were put in as the walls were built.. I suppose I'd have to cut mortar...

The joists are very good I can't see any loose knots anywhere. As an aside can you still buy sawn timber? I only seem to see cls these days.

If you look at the pictures I posted you can see a ledge of wood which is the house floor level. The floor I want to drop sits 48mm above this level. The floor is in a conservatory that I'm doing a few changes to. The reason it's too high is when it was built it wasn't realised that the floor...

Hi all. I want to drop the floor in a 2.4m x 3m room about 48mm. The current floor is suspended and sits on 102 x 47 sawn timber joists. These joists sit in joist brackets that are built into the walls. The joists are 2.4m long but are supported in the middle on a wall that runs down the...

Hi all. Using 18mm tongue and groove OSB on a flat roof. Do the end joins need to be over a joist? Or are the tongue and groove joints ok if they are between two spans? Also are the joints, length and width, normally glued? Thanks.

Sorry I'm not sure what you mean by 600 centres. Do you mean screw the 100 and 140 timber together every 600mm?

I've already changed my mind about stopping the cladding at 2ft above the ground. I saw pictures of vertically clad buildings which had bricks showing below the cladding. I thought it looked good but I don't know why I said 2ft. I was thinking of only about 1ft showing. Do you mean use 240 wide...

The brick walls have rockwool cavity bats in them 50 thick. The floor is chipboard suspended so I can lift that and jam kingspan in-between the joists. I want to end up with a room I can use all year round so insulation and waterproofing is something I want to get right. I'd rather not demolish...

So if it's clad on the outside there is only one frame. How thick would the frame be before any boarding or cladding is attaching?

I've got a summerhouse or garden room, whatever it's called, bottom of the garden. It's got a solid back wall close to the fence and the other 3 walls are a 3ft high dwarf walls with windows around the top of the walls. It then has a polycarbonate roof. All the walls are 100mm bricks, a 50mm...

Hi. Can anybody tell me how a timber framed building or extension, which is clad on the outside is constructed? What I mean is is it built as a single frame with the cladding on the outside and plasterboard on the inside? Or is it built like a conventional brick and block build with an inner...

I've been doing a bit more reading up and gaps appearing has been mentioned. Not gaps from the tiles moving but from shrinkage, which is a bit worrying. It's only two small areas I am doing so I was going to glue the long edges which won't be against any walls and float the rest. I'm starting...

Not really no. Is it affected by sunlight?

The Amtico that I'm thinking of getting is being sold locally for £29.99 a box with 1.76 m2 in it. So I'm happy with that but I know it's usually more pricey. Taking it up is one of the reasons for me getting this instead of a clicklock. I'd like to have access under the floorboards in the...