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I guess by tank you mean cylinder in the cupboard. The pipe that comes out from the top, will be your hot water feed to your taps. There should be a valve on this pipe, normally a gate valve, that will stop the HW flow to the tap. May be a good time to fit a isolation valve. Hope...

Drill into the clay collar, every couple of ins, and CAREFULLY chip the collar away using a chisel, making sure you don't damage the old loo, as you don't want any loose bits falling down into the soil pipe. Also be careful when lifting the loo out. You may want to use an old plastic...

Yes you will need to bleed all the rads and don't forget to replace the inhibator.

I would definitely leave it in place, it's there to help along with the inhibator. They can leak if not looked after and from over tightening. If the unit is leaking I would strip it down and clean with warm water and check the seals are ok. Hope this helps rob

I would definitely leave it in place, it's there to help along with the inhibator. They can leak if not looked after and from over tightening. If the unit is leaking I would strip it down and clean with warm water and check the seals are ok. Hope this helps rob

http://m.screwfix.com/p/flexible-hose-15mm-x-15mm-10mm-bore-900mm/68013 Just fit isolation valves before fitting.

Hi gazz to stop the leak just make sure you replace the O ring with one the same that's on there. I don't think you will have a grub screw on these as they are screwed down with a nut on the spout. Just give it a bit more and it should pop off to replace the O ring. I had to fix one of these...

This I believe is a direct combi cylinder for your hot water for your taps only. The blue stuff is the insulation so no need to have any jacket. The cylinder has integral, built-in cold water tank, it eliminates the need for a separate cold water storage tank in the loft. Hope this helps Rob

You will need a 15mm compression elbow.

If its a towel rad you shouldn't have a problem draining down the system and making sure there is no water in the pipe work unless it's a basement. And yes sorry Dan, I ment bypass my silly mistake!

You can use either side of a radiator as a return/flow. I would advise just to fit lockshield valves to the towel radiator as it will keep it nice and hot. You could use compression joints to tee into the system shouldn't be a problem. Rob

Does the top of the tap handles have removable caps?

I can see why he didn't connect a flexi. You could get a plumber to fit an isolation valve to the existing nut and olive, and run a bit of pipe upto the inlet. Happy days

Just follow the fitting instructions and you shouldn't have a problem.

It may be a bit of a squeeze but don't know the measurements. Is that not an isolation valve on there at the moment?.

Just follow the fitting assembly guide and you shouldn't have a problem.

You may be able to fit a flexi hose with a isolation valve to replace the nice plastic one. Just remember to turn the main water supply off. You should be able to use the nut and olive from the compression fitting. :wink:

I would go down to a plumbers merchant/ DIY store and find one with the correct inlet size your after. I have had to cut these inlet down on a few job to make fit, so you shouldn't have a problem finding one to fit.

I would recommend using sentinel x100. Treats a system up to 9 rads, if you have more then buy another. When you add it to the system I would use a funnel as you don't want it going everywhere. If you have towel rad top it up from their.