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Yep, was the heat exchanger. Decided to get the plumber out instead of trying to fix myself. Turns out I have a Greenstar 30 si which looked way more fiddly than the CDi's I was youtubing.

I've been googling, it looks similar to the 27cdi. Can't find the model number on the thing!! Anyway, I closed the main inlet and opened a hot water tap. The pressure went down. So guessing that's the heat exchanger done in. I've got a plumber coming tomorrow save me breaking anything.

Cheers for those ideas. Will have a go when I get home. Hope I can disconnect the filling loop, its one those "hard" ones that you need to stick the plastic key in.

Hi, I have a Worcester Bosch combi boiler. I'll update the thread with model when I get home. It's like the 24i except it has 2 dials for CH temp and HW temp. I noticed the pressure gauge was in the red. I went to check one of the rads which usually gets air. No air. I drained one of the rads...

Cheers guys. Thats what I was after. Ps. if anyone knows any good links for bricklaying patterns/example, would be much appreciated.

Hi, Either i'm googling the wrong thing or I shouldn't be doing a T-junction! I'm building a little, single skin, 4 course wall. It will be the boundary between the patio and garden. In the middle of the wall I will have a step up to the garden. I want the wall to look something like this...

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Silicone/mastic and paint it is. Thanks :)

I've built my shed with stud walls made from 2 by 4. I've clad the exterior with boards recovered from palettes, horizontally. Each board, I've routed a lip so they each overlap. Problem is, some boards have knot holes or gaps between boards due to damage. I'm wondering what is the best way...

what about really big holes? :ROFLMAO:

Thanks CJRatch. I'll aim for 3-4 courses.

Hi, A bit of a general question for feedback and tips. I want to build a large shed, about 7' x 15'. My intention was to lay some footings, 8" deep, for a 2 course single skin brick wall. I was then planning on building stud walls atop the wall. Roof would just be a simple felted shed roof. 2...

So.... Phoned South Staffs Water who told us to deal with it ourselves as our neighbours weren't affected. Spoke to a plumber who said the problem was probably the outside stop tap and not the pipe, phone SSW back. Phoned SSW back and told them what I'd done and the symptoms and that we had...

Update: We have a tap in the garage which I believe is not affected by the stop cock in the kitchen as its also attached to a lead pipe. I'm assuming the lead pipe is branched somewhere beneath the house. Anyway, I turned the kitchen stop cock off. No water out the kitchen tap. Getting a...

So.... We've had a new kitchen and decided to move the stop cock so it wouldn't require some unsightly boxing. This house was built circa 1930's and the stop cock is connected to a lead pipe. We had a good plumber move the stop cock about 3 inches, just enough so it would be hidden by the new...

E's and whizz, dilalio, E's and whizz.

Thanks Nige F. The rest of you, erm, you seem to have something else on your minds!

Hi, My old hob had a female inlet/connector which connected to a male fitting on the end of the copper. My new hob came with an elbow already connected to the female inlet. Which is just as well as its needed, not enough room to take the elbow off and fit the old male straight to the hob...

Hello again :) No pictures yet, haven't removed the old toilet. And its cemented in! Judging by the old "dauntless rubber" cistern I'm guessing the old stack is clay. Will add some pictures once I've managed to un-seize the stop cock :D :rolleyes: