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You are not wrong about Spanish properties - we live in a 400 year old house and at least the walls are thick and so keep the heat. The newer parts extended in the 1970s though are very poor quality and no insulation so when we nodernised I built false interior walls with insulation between the...

My many thanks to those above for their comments. I am still convinced however that under-floor insulation will be of assistance. My reasons for this are that over the past few days we have had some dramatic changes in temperature (0 - 25 deg in less than a week) and the floor has reflected this...

Having now spent two weeks looking at this and other forums (is forums correct!) I think the answer to the problem of my downdraughts is to use bathroom rated fittings. These appear to be sealed and so would stop the problem in its tracks. I seem to have no need for fire hoods as the space above...

I am having similar trouble and posted in another thread as I did not see this one - however I cannot get into the rood void which is only 13 inches deeps anyway.The downlights let loads of cold air through from the ventilated area above even though there is a 2-3 inch layer of rockwool up there...

The ceiling space is not really like those in the UK - the ceiling itself is made of 1.5" thick plaster of paris sheets all plastered together to form a single sheet and suspended from the concrete roof by a type of hair covered in what looks like plaster but seems stronger - anyway it is...

Many thanks to the above contributor - will see what materials are available here. Not too sure on the method of fixing though - is glueing with foam any good? Here all cables are contained in flexible tubes so the problem of covering them with insulation is not an issue.

Hi - I am living in Spain in a very old building which has been extended in the 1950s. The extension is of a typical pillar and concrete floor type using clay infill panels between concrete beams for the floors and roof. Part of our house is on the first floor where there is no building...

Well - thanks for all the replies and I have been trying out the things suggested with some success. With just over half the system closed down the other rads then do warm up better but I decided to look at the potential lack of flow and noticed something which may or may not be contiibuting to...

Many thanks to last two contributions - dark ages it may seem but here in Spain ALL systems are seemingly done this way - as for cycling the answer is yes - even with the boiler stat turned up full - the rads tops get very hot but bottoms still remain cool but the boiler does fire up and shut...

Hi and many thanks for that - although I did not say in my earlier post I had flushed out several of the rads but there is no difference on those so far treated in this way - in addition there are two new rads in the system which also fail to warm from the botttom. When the new rads were...

My system is fed from a Valient combie boiler using 28 mm pipe reducing to 22mm then 18mm or 15mm for each rad depending on their size. The balancing seems ok as all rads appear to heat at the same time with all rads getting hot - but at the tops only. No matter how long the system runs for...

A DIY plumber used to workingn in the UK but now with a place in Spain where I am finding the different ways of doing things quite strange - but leaning all the time.

Hi - I am very new to this forum and have looked for an answer but not succeded so hoping someone out there can advise me. I have a system fed by a valiant combie boiler feeding aluminium rads from 22 and 18mm pipes (am in spain) The rads are all connected TBOE with the hot feed and control...