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That would be fine.

you'll need to make sure you keep it damp if it gets as hot as they say, and all the more so if it's in the sun. a light but regular hosing down or watering can should do it. and keep them covered with some polythene or similar. search paving expert for weather for more info.

depending on why you don't want to drill, what about an adhesive like Evo-Stik Serious Stuff (manufacturer says it can be used outdoors).

if it was just a matter of appearance you could paint concrete posts.

full mortar bed just means that the slab is supported by, well, a full bed of mortar as opposed to the old 5 blobs of mortar approach: http://www.pavingexpert.com/layflag1.htm You would still need to use a mix of sharp sand and cement. It could be dry with no water added at all (in which...

Roughneck mattock with fibreglass handle. Superb for a wide range of digging and other landscaping tasks in heavy and rocky clay soil. Much less effort than a spade/shovel, and excellent for removing tree stumps, roots and boulders. I have no idea why they are not used more extensively in the UK.

I had something which looked just like your very first photo in your first post on a wall which backs onto a bathroom which was fitted about 7 years ago. Turned out the grouting on the tiles just above the bath (where the taps/shower are) had failed and water was slowly getting through. I...

Depending on the type of hedge you might also be able to reduce its depth to make life easier in the long term. For example in my experience privet can withstand very severe cutting back, both on the top and on the sides.

can't help with the specifics, but loads of discussion of this type of thing here: http://www.pavingexpert.com/featur03.htm

I would mix it without any extra water, described as a 'semi dry' mix here: http://www.pavingexpert.com/layflag3.htm I would wet up some of the same mix for any slabs to be laid at a free edge (but that might not apply in your case): http://www.pavingexpert.com/layflag2.htm

well, again only speaking personally, I would dig a bit out and see if I could compact it by hand as I own a rammer and not a compactor... pavingexpert answers all your questions about the depth of the bedding layers etc.

personally, if I could get the stuff that's there compacted properly I would look at laying the slabs on top of that as it would be effectively a hardcore subbase. You should lay on a full bed of mortar.

see the pavingexpert .com website for all this and more.

It's a post level. Screwfix number 14623.

I'd be looking at getting different people: I doubt the kind of person who would do a good job of the fences would remove that amount of waste. There are people who advertise 'cheaper than a skip' rubbish removal, so I would try them. How difficult/expensive it will be will depend on how easy...

Maybe leave a small area beneath the tap without blocks or slabs or whatever and cover it gravel? That way at least the water might permeate a bit quicker.

Hi. I am planning a stepping stone path through an area of gravel with landscape fabric beneath. Would I get away with clearing off the gravel and laying the slabs on a normal dry sand and cement mix on top of the landscape fabric? Or should I cut the landscape fabric so I am laying the slabs...

what are you cutting them with?

if you want to go for concrete, look here: www.pavingexpert.com/concrete.htm another alternative is slabs, laid on a dry sand and cement mix in which case look here: http://www.pavingexpert.com/layflag1.htm

maybe your mix is too wet?