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Thanks - just wondered if I was missing something but that makes sense now.

Ok so just for my own edification, why would you not just reformat the drive as part of the XP install, rather than using this software? Not challenging what you have done, just trying to get a better understanding.

Or quick fix - plastic bag. Unscrew the spigot connector, place the bag across the outlet and screw the spigot back on. Turn the outlet upwards as an extra safeguard. Will do until you can find a better fix - ideally a blank that fit inside the outlet and held in place when you screw the spigot...

Line it with newspaper. If anything sticks you can soak it off.

Water Authority - possibly Thames Water as you are in Surrey?

Those connections are for dishwasher and washing machine wastes. If you are not using them they will need to be blocked off pronto.

Under NO circumstances use PVA. You will only make matters worse.

No picture?

Tap connector every time for me.

Maybe ok but have never used it so can't comment.

Nothing special - just the same as you would fill cracks in walls. If there cracks are quite small then a fine surface filler would be best. Off the shelf ready mixed will do.

Do you mean brand new? So these are the wall tiles? Why is there so much variation if newly built? Are they talking about overboarding the floor? Not sure I fully understand what you have described. Any pictures to help explain?

Easy job - just unscrew as you said. Just make sure the valve is working (the operating pin can stick if not used for a long time). Sometimes just tapping the valve body is enough to free it.

What it means is that you have to buy what is on the market. You have obviously done some searching and found what is available so you have to make your choice from those.

A short-term quick fix would be to fix some aluminium sheet above the boiler flue to deflect the overflow. It could be fixed to the soffit and must not obstruct the circulation around the flue. Another option would be to increase the capacity of the lower gutter using something like this...

Apart from consideration about pipes freezing I can't see any real reason for not doing it.

In which case, 'you pays your money and takes your choice'

Are you replacing an integrated hood - the type that has a matching door attached and fits in line with the cabinets? If so you want something like this: http://ao.com/product/DHE635BGB-Bosch-Classixx-Integrated-Cooker-Hood-Silver-4530.aspx

I think the label on top of the socket in Chinese and the Business Seller's Id further down the page say it all really.

Slip a bit of plastic sleeving (insulation from electric flex or similar) over the hook to stop it binding.