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If all other lights are working and the light was working before you replaced it. You could have pulled the cable out of junction box in ceiling void :( Did we not bin the neons :evil:

HA106420 my thoughts are as follows, It is all about progression, start of with the basic stuff and move up from that point. Did you say you was 28 years old so I assume by now you have something between the ears and not just wax! Your best route would be 2330 Level 2&3, you don't need to...

good call The IEE Electricians Guide To The Building Regulations (updated 17th eds) ISBN 978-0-86341-862-4 Some handy pointers to part p and other building regs

The electricians guide wont help with the re-wire, this book explains the 17th eds in a clearer fashion than the big red book. Not sure that a book would be able to help you as you said you have the paper knowledge just not the experience. But you said you've done a bit of house bashing in the...

That sounds a good idea, how big is rad what power rating is it and what size fuse have you protecting it in the FCU

If that's true, it's strange. Have check that the breaker has not tripped on the circuit?

but we can not confirm a working supply. You said you fitted a 13amp plug to rad and worked ok. We now need to find out if the FCU has a supply source, you need to find where it is spurred from and prove that the supply is still connected up

Don't trust neon screwdrivers, should not be used, should not be sold!

is the fuse ok

have your connected it right? radiator cables in to load side of FCU and cable supply at supply side!

I'd suggest, 2330 level 2, then progression to level 3, then 2381 as you only need to take short exam as you have level 3 qualification. Most of the inspection and testing will come at level 3 and if you wanted after gaining some experience then do 2391/2. I would not attempt self learning of...

house socket

have you tried black in L2 and swap the reds com and L1

It would be best to take a level 2 course with progression to 17th eds, but at level 2 with my experience of it, the inspection and testing is only slightly touched on. Local Building Controls fees are about £125 for work that is valued at £0-£2000. When using building controls i'd suggest if...

I think you need to make the customer aware that you can't do your primary test on the installation and if they can't be done none of the others can be, as it will fail to comply to standards required within BS7671 and GN3. So certs and schedules can't be made out. If your offering it for free...

Depends on the power circuit you intend to take the spur from in the garage. But sounds like your not an electrician, so do you have any knowledge of part p of the building regulation. If not your a naughty boy! :shock:

if I remember right? :roll: With NAPIT you need a level 3 qualification not particular an NVQ. Are 2391/2 2381/2 not considered Level 3?

I don't think corgi do full scope, but the corgi engineers are define scope which means they can work on the electrical circuits on boilers/central heating systems. But that does not allow them to do a full re-wire under that scope even if they are part p qualified (what ever that is?) Can't...

do you have a CEF or EDMUNDSONS close by they always seem to find what I want. If not try google tlc

mmmmm! a couple of beers that sounds good, hi ho hi ho it's off the pub I go!