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thanks for your advice, buying a new brass fitting tomorrow :D

Its a complete new motorised valve the bit on top of the brass fitting, I haven't changed the brass fitting, I've noticed that the spindle is not too easy to move, requires pliers, should the spindle move freely?

If I turn only the hot water on, and adjust the cylinder stat should I see the motorised valve open and close? As currently if I turn the stat up I can see the valve open but when I turn it down the valve doesn't close. Its a new valve atenuator. Can it be the brass fitting,i.e. the ball not...

I have been having problems with the hot water getting "very hot" and cylinder stat having little effect on this. I've now changed the motorised part of the honeywell valve, but this seems to have little effect. Is it best to change the Brass fitting as I understand the rubber ball inside...

the rate the water was flowing was too fast, it was like a river as if under pressure, yet CH was turned off.

I'm trying to change a rad valve without draining the system. I've tried using a Drayton easy drain bung, sealing the header tank and back fill pipe, turning the opposite end rad valve off, and CH turned off, but when I open the valve in question water just flows fast. I would appreciate...

can anyone please advise?

As far as I can see the pump has a supply There is a 3 way "T" valve which I presume must have its own supply. All of these are in the same location as the pump in the airring cupboard. The boiler has its supply via a spur to the timer controller next to the kitchen. Regards

Hi, I'm a little confused as I'm about to have a boiler replaced and having had 3 quotes each is telling me different stories. My pump is situated a distance away from the boiler, one plumber is now telling me I need a pumb override electrical supply to run from the boiler to the pump, yet...