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Okay so I'm thinking this is down to a couple of things. 1. My mis-understanding of the zones. Zone 2 is labelled as "Upstairs". However, it only covers the master bedroom and the ensuite to that room. I assumed by "upstairs" it literally meant, upstairs. The other zone, labelled "downstairs"...

I haven't disconnected the outdoor sensor so it'll still be wired in. I didn't wire the Nests in for OpenTherm as I believe it's not supported for a multizone system. It's only got one frost stat. I read up on the system bypass but didn't want to adjust it as it seems its set when the system...

. My system has a Honeywell outdoor temperature sensor in it. I did intend to hook it all up using OpenTherm but was advised that won't work with a dual zone system with Nest.

Good question, one I asked myself and I stupidly never tested it before removing the TP5000s.

The TRVs on my radiators are Mistral II. Instructions seem to indicate a setting of 5 = 27 - 29c

The heating system is all brand new so I would like to think it worked. Everything from the Nest side seems to be working. The boiler fires up when heat is called for, the zone valves work, the pipes above them get hot. It definitely seems like they've labelled the zone valves around the wrong...

Ok Will do, thanks.

Apologies for the confusion.

I edited my original post where you originally asked. All the TRV's are set to 5, the maximum.

I've set zone valve 1 to manual. The boiler fired up. I'll leave it running for a bit and see if any radiators heat up.

The zone valves are set to auto. The pipe above the zone 1 valve is hot. Some of the radiators upstairs are heating up, some aren't. All the TRVs are set to 5 (the maximum).

Sorry, that's an issue with the diagram as I had to move both of the Heat Link #3 along in the junction box. I have definitely moved them, I just missed that one in the diagram. I will correct it. The heating's been on for over 30 minutes now. All the radiators downstairs (zone 1) are cold...

So the living room radiator still isn't getting warm. The boiler is still heating away. The zone 1 valve is warm and the pipe coming from it is hot. The zone 2 valve is cold as is the pipe.

Isn't that for the older Nests? They certainly don't make it 100% clear what the story is as further down that same page it says; "Even if the thermostat and Heat Link are connected via cables, they’ll still communicate using Nest Weave so that the Heat Link can receive automatic software...

Okay, so I've split out the T1 and T2 connections as per the advice above. It all seems to be firing up as before but still no heat in the radiators. Maybe I need to leave it longer but I would have thought that after 5 minutes, there would be at least some mild warmth in the radiators? It's...

Okay, it doesn't mention that in the installation guide and suggests it's for 12v DC only but I'll split out the T1 and T2 cables between the two junction boxes and see how I go.

According to Nest, the T1 and T2 connectors are only used for 5v DC to the Nest thermostats as they communicate wirelessly with the Heat Link. You can run a Nest Thermostat using a supplied USB cable without using T1 and T2 at all. I can test it via the button on the Heat Link, taking the Nests...

Thanks for replying. I was confused about what you meant at first but I think my diagram isn't clear enough. The Heat Links feed their own T1 and T2 into the Heat Link junction box. This is then merged so a single T1 and T2 goes from there to the Boiler junction box. From there it splits out...

Some background. I've just recently moved into a new build. It has an Ideal Logic 35 Combi boiler with two heating zones and no hot water tank. It did have two Danfoss TP5000 thermostat/programmers. What I've done is install the two Heat Links in the garage next to the boiler. These are wired...

Answering my own question about figuring out cables. To suss out which two are the TP5000s, I'm going to cut the central heating power at the CU, disconnect one of those grey cables and then work my way through them to see which TP5000s switch off when I disconnect the cables at the junction box.