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125mm will be your maximum headlap, any more and the tiles will ride up in each other

If you've got water dripping on the inside you've either got condensation issues or there is something wrong with the felting.

If you bed the tiles at the edges the mortar is very likely to leech water under the tiles. What you have now is what you should have (though the foam does have a habit of deteriorating over the years).

Whilst someone is up there repairing the chimney flashing it would be a VERY good idea to get the chimney coated with a waterproofing solution especially if the chimney is not used. 9 times out of 10 it isn't the flashing that is the issue but porous brickwork.

Has the roof been like this since you bought it or is this just happening (can't quite make it out from your post). This does happen as the roof settles over the years after build but of course the wall will stay rigid and will keep the tiles higher than the remainder of the roof, also...

Redland used to have an issue with this a while back and we actually had a contract with them to effectively wash down the roof, the solution we washed it down with was a very mild acid solution which weathered the surface to a certain extent and worked very well. It does look bloody orrible...

Yup, you'll be after creasing tiles for the make up

You could try the Stramit website, that may help. www.stramit.co.uk

Unfortunately with any of the PVC membranes any details from below show themselves on the surface though fleece backed membraned can reduce this to some extent, the insulation joints are not (afaik) taped anyway. The brochures always look nice, neat and smooth but in practice there will...

Dependant on the system you are looking at £19-£27 per square metre for materials plus labour and profit, some systems can be done in a day wheras others can need 24 hours before a top coat is applied so approx costs I would reckon at around £1500.00

9mm sounds a bit floppy to me, 12mm might be better. As far as taking up under the tiles is concerned, you need to take it the equivalent of 150mm vertically, as an example if the pitch of the tiled slopes is 35 degrees you need to take it a minimum of 260mm up the slope

Agreed Woody, No actual headway towards getting proper prices & workmanship on site work, it will still be a case of cheapest wins rather than value for money

Guys. Those of us who work on NHBC sites are going to have to be extra vigilant, there has just been a seminar on roofing by them (with representation from the NFRC) about failing roofs, this has mostly come down to mortar but we seem to finally have some back up when roofs have been built...

Plain tiles are perfectly acceptable dry laid up an open valley (no matter what NHBC says), mortar can cause its own issues in valleys especially if badly carried out

Use the Onduline undertile system to take the water that will penetrate the tile laps, this will be the weathering layer with the tiles being for show only, the only problem with this (especially at that low pitch) is that frost damage is more likely to occur as water will sit in the laps...

Something else too....... Straight bonded tiles!!!!

Blimey, sounds about 50% too high especially if the 5 houses are all linked in the one terrace

The clue is on the tin lol. Acrypol You can get it in most roofing / builders merchants

Blimey! How aggressively do you wash up to make that much noise lol If the roof can take it (and the felt is still in fine fettle), why not insulate over the top and ballast it with paving slabs (upside down roof system)

No real need to tape the joints, bearing in mind of course that the long joints of the deck should be over the joists it would take a lot of movement to cause an issue.