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I second the 18mm T&G OSB, it is sooooo much better than butt jointed boards, gives a very solid surface and cuts down massively on waste (oh and a lot easier to handle too)

Well, the tiles are double pantiles of which there are 4 main manufacturers which have slight size differences but not much, hard to tell if they are different really, I'd be surprised if it did leak TBH though there is a chance wind blown rain could penetrate if the gap is too large. The tile...

Second FMT's question really, reason for drape is to give somewhere for the water to go away from the rafter lines. We'e fitted 1000's of square metres of Permo Forte and never had an issue with it, it is only a secondary barrier really so, as the roofer is doing, the main issue is to stop...

Ahem! lol

Chinese hats here lol

A good roofing supplier (not a builders merchant) will be able to get tiles by the pack rather than the pallet, they may even have a few knocking about (unlikely but you never know). One good wheeze if you only need a few is to ask for some samples to be arranged :mrgreen:

Most odd that another scaffolding company would nick a ladder I must say, they must have been bloody desperate for it.

The CT1 will work as if forms a flexible rubberised seal BUT it will look untidy and should have been properly carried out in the first place, really it's up to you, you paid for a job to be done and you will have to live with it BTW, when I said `ah, it's vertical', I meant the slating not...

Ahhh, it's vertical, I think he means CT1 not CG1, CT1 is a high quality sealant / mastic which should seal the joint

Ditto to Oldun, we allow 2.5% too (though there was a point with Mini Stonewolds we were allowing 4%)

They're double roman could be Marley, Sandtioft or Redland, it should be fairly simple to remove one and look at the back where it should state the manufacturer

It should be a tight fit, sounds like the roofer had an old one that he's re-used that was cut for a larger pipe

Well, for a start there should not be lead soakers at the side abutments as there is no support at the rear of the soaker, they should either be pre-formed rigid soaker units as made by Danelaw or a secret gutter. The flashing at the top edge should have a minimum of 150mm cover over the top of...

Worry not, if the picture that comes up is the roof you mean then they are clay machine made tiles, you are confusing them with asbestos slates (generally Asbestos diagonal slates (blimey haven't written that for a while)) which were red in colour

Aptly shown reason for getting 3 quotes, 2 near the same and one way out, 2 near the same more likely correct

Just tape the joints of the TLX-Silver, that should be fine. Taping the joints in the rigid insulation won't do anything apart from give you a headache

Not forgetting Brazilian `slates' too

Assuming they are natural slates rather than fibre cement they should be able to bond in BUT only if your slates are fitted with a 3" (75mm) headlap or more (looking at the batten coursing in relation to your slate it looks as though they are (assuming the batten gauge is correct)). It may also...

We seem to be in the same situation with chinese slates that we were with spanish slates in the late 80's early 90's in that we seem to be getting the crap that they don't want. A lot of Chinese slates are dreadful (especially those known as weathering slates) but some are fine, TBH you get...

Your last statement has cleared things rather lol You don't have to go for large interlocking tiles you can, as has been suggested, look at Sandtoft 20/20, flanders colour would prob be a good one to go for or look down the concrete route and go for Forticrete Gemini's (*cough spit*), Marley...