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The weld failure can only really be endemic if either the hot air gun (machine) wasn't at a high enough temperature (which is unlikely) or the underside of membrane got wet, PVC absorbs the water and will not weld correctly if the case. As far as I know you just need to run the seam tester...

No, it is correct, the flashing piece is welded to the front edge of the drip trim then welded to the field area thus creating the inward facing seam

Looks like the hot air weld didn't take for some reason What you could get done is a patch hot air welded over the lifted lap. Not the ideal situation but would at least cover the failed area, this shouldn't cost you a huge amount. Best to get all the other welds laps tested with a seam...

Th OP would if they could but the builder is no more (more common problem nowadays of course)

The Sarna is hot air welded at the joints so shouldn't actually part The build up is the bottom layer of Sarna goes to the edge, the drip trim is then mech fixed through the 1st layer into a timber edging with a cover flashing strip welded to the top of the metal trim and then to the main...

We would need to see the tiles to give specific advice but if you can get 1 tile from the roof or even a close (ish) up photo, take it to a local roofing merchant or contractor who will be able to tell you what it is.

You shouldn't have too much issue with Sun Pipes being installed instead, most refusals for roof windows are to do with privacy issues and as you can't see out of a sun pipe this problem does not occur. Monodraught do one in fact that also acts as an extract vent as well

Slightly confused about the keeping the roof but raising it statement (could be me reading it wrong) You could just insulate over the top of the flat roof finish to give what is known as an `upside down roof' where the insulation is held down by a ballast such as paving stones

There are other routes such as single ply membrane systems but TBH lead would be your best bet as will last as long as the building (if carried out correctly) and is easier to detail

Commercial tiles are still up to British Standards but are not necessarily the colour they were meant to be or are slightly off in dimension or shape, back in the early 90's we used to use a lot of Acme Commercials but would always make the client aware of this fact, they would still have the...

By the sound of it the while hip needs re-bedding if the whole lot slipped, shows the hip iron is doing its job though. May be an idea to mech fix as well using a union clip and long screw between each hip tile just to make it more secure in future

Nice finial! The clue is in the name Hip Iron lol That is sooooooo bad!

I think what Mw R meant was `how high from the ground is it?'

DO NOT USE SPRAY FOAM! Is there a particular reason you want to line the roof?

Have you considered a metal tile such as Decra which go down to 10 degrees?

Unfortunately the minimum pitch for most roof-lights is 15 degrees, to use at 10 degrees you have to have a kerb fitted more like a flat roof roof-light. If you are just in need of light why not look into sunpipes?

According to the book `Historical Notes On The Langley Museum' by C G Dobson probably the first machine made pan tiles (in the UK) were made in 1798 after a patent was taken out by Francis Farquarson with a patent for interlocking pantiles taken out in 1855 by three Frenchmen, Emile Muller...

Small point, I doubt they are asbestos, If I recall correctly asbestos slates didn't require a copper disc rivet which I'm sure I can see has been used.

Also remember you will have to get Building Control involved especially as there is a considerable weight difference in what you have on the roof now and what you are thinking of replacing it with

Think you need to start talking to a local bona fide contractor TBH and try to sort out some sort of partnering and try to agree some budget figures with them bit too complicated to give ball park figures especially where loft conversions are concerned as one roof is likely to be wildly...