Search results

I reckon that rain will hit the bottom of the bay window, won't get absorbed by the bricks (as it's meant to do) as you've painted over them, run down the gap between the house and paving that you've tried to seal with silicone, get trapped, can't evaporate and therefore penetrate into your...

oh boy. That sealant is something to behold. How do you think your exterior ground levels look?

looks exactly the same as my own tap which is a Franke. there should be grub screws below the levers to allow you to remove them

it's there to reduce noise.... remove it at your peril.

no easy out here. had exactly the same situation. i didn't trust my 100 year old lath and plaster to hold up my travertine. I screwed waterproof plasterboard onto the existing studs. then tiled on top of that. had to put a double bead edging around the shower but it looks ok.

Some good points in that link and sage advice in the comments. I believe that re re rendering refers to external walls. if you have damp penetrating into the house it doesn't matter what type of plaster you have, the finish will suffer

if he's going to put a hardstand around your house make sure he digs out what is already there first. If you raise the ground level you'll have a chance of damp internal walls. So you want the finished surface including tiles no higher than it is at the moment. Modern plaster is ok for the...

First you need to gently strip off that paint right back to the substrate. Then use a lime based repair mortar such as Lithomex http://www.masonsmortar.co.uk/knowledge/page/lithomex to fill in the missing chunks. it takes a small amount of skill to do this and it can be used to recreate lost...

I would try and keep them if at all possible. Modern replacements will likely be of inferior quality.... if you can get them. I would be surprised if the window cills are cement. more likely to be either natural stone or lime based stucco. These are more than 100 years old. Some degradation...

the traditional way is to use a sand mastic (mixture of burnt sand and rosin oil) applied using a margin trowel. this technique was applied to traditional joins between masonary and wooden windows. lasts decades.

first off, if you're repointing your stack i hope that you're using a lime based mortar. Cerement based pointing will likely exacerbate the spalling you are experiencing and may even be the cause of it. I would counsel against sealing your brickwork as you would be likely to trap moisture behing...

get youself one of these.. http://www.screwfix.com/p/professional-power-plunger/90321 even managed to shift one of my sister-in-law's dead otters. Saved me a fortune over the years and screwfix deliver

no it's not normal. How bad is the corrosion?

Sounds exactly the same as my systen, I went through all the options, powerflush new pump bigger pump TF1 filter I still have lazy flow to some rads and I assume that there is a bypass hidden under the floorboards somewhere. Judging by the age of my system it's mroe likely to be a...

You may want to consider if you have a bypass hidden under the floorboards somewhere!

Dunno where you are in Glasgow, but 'Masons Mortar' in Govan has all the materials you'll need

high speed lead through the eye socket is the only permanent remedy.

I often use a plumbers torch to get a burn on quicker

I had the same on my last install. I screwed it to the wall and closed the gap. it's unnoticeable and no leaks 2 years later!

double post..sorry