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Sounds like your control stat is not working so the boiler is relying and working on the limit stat alone, both stats are wired in tandem. Should the limit stat ever trip to prevent overheating, it needs a cool down period before a reset can be enabled. To test that the control stat is working...

On some older type valves a conversion kit may be required. http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/honeywell-40003918006-conversion-kit-p-288.html

Yes, same as denso13, a dual flow mixer tap is the solution. Inter-streams hot and cold at the tap nozzle at atmospheric pressure and therefore no contamination or pressure problems.

The Ariston 500 STI has a built-in sacrificial anode, it sits between the two looped heating elements and acts as a dummy load to prevent corrosion within the storage water vessel. If it disconnected or bypassed, the electrolytic action would 'eat away' at some other convenient point yet this...

Here's the manual - you may have to check with your supplier if off-peak times correspond. www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/p3133739.pdf

I would go for the pipe stat as suggested, a cylinder stat (such as the Salus) will fit on to pipes and costs just under £10 - can be adjusted to desired temp, no timers to mess with.

I must admit the pros outweigh the cons, incredible spec' - 'Just for copper pro' seems better than the original version. Got to be prep'd correctly though and must set without disturbing, i'm tempted to experiment with this stuff, maybe on a washing machine or outside tap. Here's a better...

Re: Some kind of glue. Glue could be used, though personally i would never use it, some say it works o.k on water. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OODbzJUWg-A

Another solution - internal skimming with a ceramic lining can seal leaking masonry chimneys with little or no construction work needed, here's a couple of video examples... Eldfast... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6ZVSLIFAOQ Supaflu... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ebm0f_Ft5DI

No, even a momentary temperature spike can cause permanent lockout until manual reset. For the pump to operate correctly it **must** be wired back to the pump section of the boiler terminal block. It is these terminals which will control the timed pump overrun (approx 2 mins) and free run...

Q: How do you think gravity BB's heated water? A: By gravity circulation thermal displacement piped directly into a bulk volume stored from top downwards normally aided by stratification and vented to atmosphere, the 'tank' system - with no pump obviously.

Yes, and a flue analysis print out attached to the job paper work for reference and comparison would be the norm for any experienced and fully competent RGI.

It's a "three port" valve and not a "mid position" valve.

Just a suggestion, Q min is the minimum volumetric flow rate Your old meter was 0.5m3/h Your new meter is 0.16m3/h Therefore your old meter had a bigger minimum flow rate limit. As the problems of the appliances are shared or random, it suggests the sequence of lighting is...

No, then its as mentioned a circulation problem, can't help any further than suggest maybe to check/re- balance rads with pump speed at 2 setting and not at 3 setting.

@bruce225, Do you have a 2 x 2 port valve system?

There is an 11 pin relay base in your control panel similar to this --> http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/11-pins-relay-base-PF083A_258907602.html It normally would have an 11 pin relay module plugged into it similar to this-->...

The relay is missing from the socket - where is it, was it faulty, call the guy and find out, the auto controls will not work unless a relay is fitted and tested to see if there is a fault.

There are two controlling valves to the oven, one is the flame failure device (FFD) which by BS is the first downstream valve, second is the oven thermostat which has a permanently open bypass rate (and only if the FFD is activated) and will only open to full rate when stat temp is demanded...

Check that the water level in the expansion tank is higher than the central connection on the 22mm x 15mm tee below the vent bend (if it isn't already) From the pic it looks like there's an uphill incline rather than a level or downhill flow - i would guess a couple of inches 'above the step'...