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Get yourself a frost proof outside tap and stop worrying about it freezing up http://www.felthorpelawnmowers.co.uk/merrill-frost-proof-outside-wall-tap-mf-series-603-p.asp Very common in North America and Scandinavia.

Put in perspective driving to and from job to remove artex that *might* contain asbestos is more dangerous than actually removing it. I never said that the risk was negligible, just that it is being blown out of proportion.

One cigarette is enough to kill. Sure smoking them day in day out increases your chances, but one will do it. At a peak death rate expected to be around ~2500 a year, there are far more dangerous things to do than removing an artex ceiling that may have asbestos in it. Add in the fact that...

Why? I have recently acquired one from my house (long story to do with bricking up an air vent) and it is way more substantial than modern brick ties.

The weight of the water of a filled bath far exceeds the weight of a cast iron bath. I suspect that he is concerned because the bath he as is some what bigger than the normal, though not massively so.

Like I said 18mm sheet material is going to do nothing to spread the load. Lengths of timber joist will do far more to spread the load. Just make sure they rest over the floor joists. My personal top tip for fitting a bath is before you fit the side panel stuff the void up with some loft...

I intend to brick up a now defunct air vent in my lounge. The issue is the outside is a galvanized cast iron vent in a roughcast wall. In addition there is one for next door as well just symmetrically opposite so I would rather leave the external grill as is. My plan is to insert a bit of...

Coming at it from the other direction, given that you are going to be skimming the whole wall anyway, it might be a good idea for the future comfort of the room to strip it back and insulate regardless of whether it is necessary or not, as now is the time to do it. Fuel prices are only going...

18mm board of any description is not going to usefully spread any load from a bath. 10mm plate steel would work but would probably just end up adding more weight. If you are genuinely concerned about the load from the bath on the floor, then you need to rest the bath on some new joists that...

Really quite small amounts of water basically eliminate the dust issue with a grinder. Why nobody does a cordless grinder (for safety) with built in water pump and reservoir beats me. I had to make an attachment myself to try it out. Sure you end up with a wet slurry that can splatter but that...

If you possibly can use one sheet of plasterboard. If you can't make sure the join is not at the boundary of the concrete and beams or you will almost certainly get a crack.

Something like Screwfix 12531 with a 4mm masonry bit say 81471. Might be worth considering 9.5mm plasterboard as well if high is an issue. A bit expensive but it will do the job. Alternatively you could try plasterboard adhesive spread with a floor tile adhesive spreader, and stick it...

Indeed I missed a decimal place it is 6.1cm by 6.1cm to give the ~3800mm, 3721mm² to be precise that he alegedly has to cover. A couple of handfuls and a small trowel will get that nice and flat :)

Good question because as it is written it is a equivalent to a square 61cm by 61cm; 3800 millimetre squared is a small area...

No you cut a hole in the plasterboard to access the void behind it, by crawling in you can then install the insulation. There is no need to remove tiles. My roof is slated so it would all have had to been taken off to gain access, and being in Scotland it has sarking on as well making coming in...

This is what I did when insulating the "slopey bits" of the ceilings in my house. However due to the inconsistent width from top to bottom I opted to use fibre glass at 65mm thick to maintain a 50mm air gap rather than kingspan type product. Worked a treat and made a big difference. I also...

An equilateral triangle has three internal angles of 60 degrees. I would expect it to be self supporting at 45 degrees. The state of maths education these days :-)

The problem is that you cannot replace a section in the middle. The whole lot has to come down to the point where there is a problem and then you go back up again. There is just no play in a cast iron pipe to work a new pipe in the middle if you are going with traditional jointing. Given the...

The way I did it was to use long 5mm HSS drill bits and drill diagonally down into the lead. The lead is nice and soft so it is easy to drill and it will only be a couple of cm deep as well. Once through it is just oakum behind. My other tip for taking it down would be to put an eye type...

Given prices for scrap metals I would have thought a copper roof was much more likely to be stolen than a lead one.