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when top floor rads are getting hot does it happen quickly or slowly and do they get to desired temperature have you tried opening d-stairs drain-offs-(with hose of course to garden)open fill loop to boiler-to check flow rate of pipe work on both flow & return to out side magnaclean flowing...

just a couple of things while i put my thinking cap on . you said the rads are getting hot up stairs ok have you turned these two off to see if heat goes d-stairs when ripping old cylinder out and pipework you have removed old motorised valve and awkward pipe work(only because someone did...

what system did you have before-was it a combi boiler

and why still wired to heating-ideally take it out. or remove head & leave valve body in open position and disconnect from electrics for now - until next heating works

hi grundug if your pressure relief valve has been letting by for some time now you will probably need to change it (but hopefully not)because the seatings wear down or scale up once discharging for long periods ( it might be a tempurature & pressure release valve? your 2 port motorized...

ok you are changing your valve anyway as you said earlier when you drain heating-check how quick your expansion tank drains down and your system empties does hot water enter the cylinder pipework(have you vented the bleed screw on pipe try your new valve and see how much you can turn...

re old stat try turning on & off and check if boiler is fireing or not

maybe if they have wired the new system to it (but not that common) whats the make of your new boiler - have you got other controls for your system- what type of old system did you have has all old pipe work been removed from old cylinder cupboard and roof space or linked up does your...

hi jr things that might cause pressure relief valve to release its self build up of pressure obviously causes the fill loop might be letting by-try disconnecting and have a look to see if letting by expansion vessel might need re pressurising a tyre gauge will test this but boiler needs...

i probably would turn off all rads and open one at a time probably start with furthest away from boiler and see if you are getting flow through it and a good tempurature -(this could establish if you have a blockage) you could try this upstairs and downstairs if you get heat to furthest rad...

if you undo front of the pump, put some old rags below to soak up any water, you should be able to gently put the end of a biro on the spinning gland and see what resistance you have- this is normally a good indication of weather pump is doing its job also when you turn on your boiler for all...

clean the green with some soft wire wool-sometimes its too late for the chrome finish-if the chrome flakes it wont hurt the valve(cosmetic) if its a lockshield thats leaking - have you tried tightening the packing gland nut-the little nut at bottom of spindle top of valve whats your boiler...

are your flow or return pipes getting hot to radiators when your boiler fires on call for heating is your pipe work getting hot past mid-position valve position -(is valve opening properly) trace pipe work to see whats getting hot and whats not eg to rads flow and returns- try turning all...

have you had them serviced or repaired ? this should be done annually and the engineer who has done this would of pointed out any visual problems

do you know who makes your existing sink and have you tried them-im sure you have

upstands on shower trays are always good i would also be inclined to get a tanking system for the walls and lap it over the upstand theirs lots of cost effective ones on the market which wont break the bank you tile over it-and if tiles or grout ever fail-tanking stops damage to other...

first thing you need to do is repressurize your system while boiler is off their should be a fill loop within eye contact of boiler(silver braided flexi hose with two black stop taps either side(hopefully) or very similar,sometimes hose is disconnected and capped if so connect and reestablish...

the first thing i would do is get some room calculations (google - heat loss calculator) theirs lots out their-this will give you your rad sizes its good to slightly oversize like kev said then i would make sure your boiler is man enough to cope with extra rads (you would need to measure all...

if you go to heatrae sadia site it will give you all tech notes on it-easy to find

hi there first things first ,your heating system needs re-charging again, because when you vent a (sealed)system of air or water you are reducing the pressure, so this needs topping up- there should be a fill loop,a silver flexi hose with taps either side,usually situated close to the pressure...