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cheers DM and CLF, but it defo is one thin bolt and 2 rubber washers/o rings, as in the diagram, I will try silicon grease, hope it works, driving me nuts with a bowl under it :evil:

ok a long thin bolt, thats all where part 88 in the pic goes on part 18

Hey all, I changed the Sani block on my Glowworm 35ci, as the old one split (common problem I hear, new design has copper pipe there now :roll: ) I cant stop the new one leaking where it screws on with one screw, tried it 3 times now, new rubbers etc, Dont know why, I think its a stupid...

Cant see the point either, I often laugh at cheaper plates trying to say something, the dearer ones sometimes are good. I have a car, not a personal plate on it, but it says "TWP" and that means stupid/dull in Welsh :shock:

Im a believer BOB :wink:

If you are on about the Weber Monocouche Render Systems, then yes I have used them and they are very good, but pricey

Are the airbricks one course below your dpc? If they are, then they may be vents that are channelled under your ground floor, these are put in to stop a build up of Radon gas and let it out, and I wouldn't advise covering them up

I should imagine, being a single storey garage, there wont be many courses of brick above the lintel anyway?. (unless a window is on the end, with a small gable above it? but this method can still be done) The proper way is to take these courses out, at least a brick (or brick and a half so that...

Hi and welcome, unfortunately your first thought is correct, if most of them still have their beds and some perps still on them, then the only way is some careful chiselling with a bolster :cry:

one hell of a structure noseall!!! but I bet its got a good thermal value, and nice and strong, but a lot of blocks used

More than likely, 100mm block/brick, 50mm cavity, 140mm thermal, dot and dabbed internal finish, In 1995 cavity insulation didn't tend to be used as thermal 140mm blocks were sufficient to meet U values at that time

I'm not sure if it still stands, but you used to be able to work on gas as long as its your own home

I thought it was a 9" wall by the first post saying it is one brick thick, its actually 1/2 brick thick Agree

You cant attack the bricks like a bull in a china shop, if a mini angle grinder was used to take out most of the mortar, then some gentle chiselling, easing the brick out. As the wall is one brick thick, the stretchers will run alongside each other, any headers that need replacing cant be...

30 years bricklaying/site engineering/management experience here, render it and you will wish you hadn't. It has eroded, yes, taken over 100years so far, it is caused by the wall continuously being exposed to wet conditions top, bottom, and both sides. Effervescence of the salts continuously...

If I had a wall like that there's no way I would render it. If you do your garden will look too mechanical looking. A wall like that just cant be built to look like that, only time can get that effect. Leave it, with some nice plants/climbers by the side of it, gardens are supposed to be...

Very good read

I agree with having to put thicker screed if you have insulation above the concrete, and in some cases Polypropylene Fibres for reinforcement, however I don't agree with the concrete and then screed being on top of the insulation. Latent heat is produced when a substance chemically changes...

vapour barrier, concrete, kingspan, screed

plasticiser is fine