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Thanks Chris your a gent :D

Can any boiler engineers tell me what part this is called please? So I can order a new one from Glowworm. Its just in front of the heat exchanger, a plastic housing that goes to the hot water pipe. Stated leaking last night, a microscopic hole/split. What you can see is my Mad Max temporary...

4087 first go

If the walls are filled, then its been probably drilled and pumped in? Wasn't so much common practice to put insulation on in the 70's, but seeing as it was late 70's then maybe. As for checking the felt, and if it is rotten, replacing the first run, you would need to take off about 3-4 layers...

I am assuming, as my post says PROBABLY. In nearly 20 yrs, bitumen roof felt WILL rot, especially the first layer that covers the fascia. Not to mention that assuming this diagnosis, the first job is to lift the first couple of layers of tiles to check the felt, even to check the cavity for...

I wouldn't have thought a 70's house would have cavity insulation, and its probably got concrete lintels, or even if it has steel boot lintels, these would not have insulation in them like today's do. From what you describe, and what I imagine your house look like, it sounds to me that the...

yes, all terrain citb licence

Sticker is off, and its not a really dull area its situated in. Looks like I'm taking it off the wall and taking back for an exchange. Thanks for your help :wink:

Supposed to be there. Yes there is one of these Lectrician.

Instructions say, turn down for less sensitivity, easy No film over lens Tim, just a black plastic cover. It must be damaged, I thought there may be a way of "resetting" these lights?

Just put a welcoming lantern light at the door up. The ones from B&Q, with a pir built in, its too sensitive and its turned right down, switches on in daylight as your near the door. I bet its faulty B&Q crap, or have i missed something? Cheers

7 of 9 all day mmmmm those t*ts :shock:

As above, and if the garage door is galvanised DON'T use it, the fumes are very poisonous

Blakes profiles are normally only used by price brickies, for Diy they are too expensive, at over £100 a pop. They don't tell you the 4 corners of your garage are level, only good for plumb and gauge at the corners, and are quick for running in of brickwork. If you make sure your 4 corners...

If its a cavity wall, it will stay there, plus doing it overhand, you cant build the internal blockwork too high because you cant reach to lay the external brickwork, so its being built strong with ties as you go up

Building overhand, is building from the inside skin, and not on the face side of the exterior skin, Everything should be fine, all that should be needed to do is having permission from the neighbour to go and clean snobs of compo dropped during the working day. A sheet or similar laid down is best

Water and Feb first, not too much if sand is wet, In a normal belle coffee pot mixer, you can get 2 builders buckets of sand in, followed by 1 cement, followed by 2 more sand. 4.1 mix. By putting cement in between the 2 sands, it helps mix more evenly and quicker. Add water if required...

I was an apprentice at the time with a building company. We were doing some roof repairs on the day the storm struck. I remember being on the roof, with the wind getting stronger and stronger, to the point where overhead electrical wires were swinging so badly, they were touching with huge...

If the internal wall is 4" concrete, or thermal, then yes. If it is 6" thermal then in 1993 no, although for a few years its been 25mm with 6" thermal as well

I think the white asbestos that was used for soffits/garage roofs etc, is low risk, Someone may tell me otherwise who knows though :?: