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If that was aimed at me secure then I agree, what I meant by my post was that his question sounded like he was comparing a rod in the ground (such as that of a TT installation) with a metal backbox sitting in a wall (such as any supply but without a connection to the MET). Now I might have...

I think you might have misread that BAS, or maybe its just me but I read his question to mean: 'Why does earthwire to a metal pole in the ground provide better earthing... than the metalbackbox that is sat in a masonry wall... which is in direct contact with the earth anyway?' Your answer...

http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=152943 :wink: Are there any cables connected to your electricity meter that do not go to your consumer unit? Any cables leaving your consumer unit that are energised but you don't know what they supply?

I wish I had the patience to draw such decent images, but I only scribbled on the wobbly lines at the top :lol: The rest was nicked from the wiki.

Do you have junction boxes, ceiling roses or terminal blocks in the light switch backbox? You'll need: 2x 1-gang 2-way switches, a length of 3-core and earth cable sufficient in length to span between the 2 switches, some twin and earth sufficient in length to span between the existing...

When you say you've unplugged everything are you absolutely sure that there are no neons lit (from extension leads/fused connection units etc) and no hidden sockets in cupboards that you have forgotten about/didn't know about? I'm assuming that you do not have RCD protection on the circuit in...

Posting the pictures might help :wink:

First bit of advice would be to swot up on the terminology :wink: Not trying to be rude but it is very difficult to give answers when your question makes no sense. An FCU will never contain an MCB, but a CU (consumer unit) will. When you say 'main electricity board power switch' do you mean...

Sounds fine to me but remember to install a grommet in the knockout of the metal backbox and to sleeve the bare earth conductor with green&yellow sleeving Remember to keep the new socket directly above the existing one to ensure the cables stay within the safe zone.

Was he doing a Periodic Inspection Report or did you call him in to fix a specific fault? Did he give you any certificates/shedule of test results etc? If so could you post them up (after removing any of your information ofcourse)? I don't want to critise your electricians advice because I...

Could you give us a bit more to go on? Why did he measure Ze/Zs? What did he tell you it meant? What has he done to find and rectify the issue? What circuit is the reading from? What is the protective device rated at? When you answer these we might be able to offer more suitable advice, but...

Thats an Residual Current Device. Its purpose is to detect an inbalance between phase and neutral conductors and to disconnect the supply in the event that it finds one. An inbalance shows that current is flowing from the phase conductor but not all of it is returning via the neutral, hence some...

Firstly, this is notifiable work, you must inform your building control office of your intentions BEFORE you start work. Yes you can supply the shed from your consumer unit so long as it is suitable for the load - older units were usually limited to a maximum of 30A per fuseway which will not...

First option is that you have a double insulated appliance which means that there will be no earth present in the cable through which fault current can flow, this means that when the cable is cut there is no current flowing to earth and it is this inbalance between phase and neutral that the RCD...

You will definately need to replace the supply cable to the shed because twin and earth is not suitable for burial unless protected by earthed steel conduit. Plastic conduit will not provide any mechanical protection whatsoever and whoever installed it shouldn't be touching electrical work...

You currently have a setup like this only with numerous light fittings... After you have isolated the circuit and confirmed it is dead you need to chose one switch and remove the cable between it and it's associated junction box. From that junction box you should then be left with a...