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You are wrong. An electrician who is a member of a self-certification scheme can not issue a building regulations compliance certificate if they did not carry out the work. You can issue an EIC for which you only complete the I&T section or a PIR but that does not mean anything with regards to...

Well I may have misread your post, but the resin kit I linked to has 3 entries so would be suitable for your needs. If I have got it wrong and it is not suitable even with the 3 entries then just ignore me :lol:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SWJKT1.html

I would bloody well hope that he checks the work sufficiently to confirm it is safe, and if he doesn't he needs a kick in the *******s and to be shown the door. Regardless, there is still a big difference between your scenario and this one. If the other people doing the work are mechanics...

Because thats not the correct procedure to follow. Electricians that are registereed to self-certify the work that they do should not be going around certifying work someone else did. There is a procedure set out that allows DIY'ers to carry out electrical work and get it inspected and tested...

You'd be better off using SWA - more expensive than twin and earth but you won't need to faff about with steel conduit and as it has an earthed armour it is exempt from the need for RCD protection so you could safely connect it to a 50A MCB and then have the RCD at the cottage end - this will...

What are the cables supplying? If they are only lighting circuits and are wired in 1.5mm² even when derated by half, their current carrying capacity will still be sufficient for a 6A MCB - still though, you should try to keep them out of insulation unless absolutely necessary, and it's never...

Probably somewhere between £200 and £10,000 depending on how many you want, what fittings you require, where in the country you are, what electrician you use, how easy the access to an appropriate electrical feed is, whether you want him to make good anything he needs to damage to carry out the...

I mentioned it in the first post :wink:

Hi Bob, sorry for not replying to your other thread a few days back, I was very busy and assumed that someone else would have answered your questions. Now that we can see your installation its just clarified what I had in my head. Before you can do anything you will need to contact your DNO...

:roll: This is what happens when people who don't know what they are talking about interchangeably use the terms earthing and bonding - it just ends up confusing anyone who comes here looking for advice.* AS TTC has stated, bonding to the main earth terminal serves a totally different purpose...

Hmm good point, but it isn't an actual offence to do so assuming the BCO are involved. And as long as sufficient advise is given and the person carrying out the work has the correct attitude (mainly knowing his limitations and seeking plenty of advice) then changing a CU isn't a job that is...

Removing the service fuse is most definately not a job for a DIY'er, and it isn't really a job that should be done by an electrician either. The only option that removes the chance of you killing yourself and/or doing some serious damage to property that doesn't belong to you is to call your...

Unless you have a TT earthing arrangement (earthed using a rod driven into the ground somewhere on your property) then you will probably only have a single 30mA RCD. If you have a TT supply you will likely have one 30mA RCD for sockets/showers and a 100mA time delayed RCD protecting everything...

As of BS7671:2008 (17th edition) you do not need supplementary bonding in the bathroom provided that all the circuits are protected by a 30mA RCD and you have main equipotential bonding.

If you can replace the wires from the last connection then that is the best method when replacing a CU, but if that isn't possible then crimps are acceptable - if the connections are made within the consumer unit you don't really need to sleeve the connection, and you definately won't have space...

If you are connecting 2 cables together you want to use insulated butt crimps Either cover the whole joint in heatshrink sleeving or put the connections inside a choc-box. What sheathing are we talking about here?

Insulated crimps are colour coded based on the cable size it should be used with: RED: 1.5mm² BLUE: 2.5mm² YELLOW: 4-6mm² Remember that the protectice conductor (earth) is smaller than the live conductors so in the case of 2.5mm² t&e you would use blue crimps on the phase and neutral...

Pros for electric heaters: You can install one yourself - they usually come with a moulded 13A plug so require no certification etc. and even if they don't, installing a FCU is not notifiable work (unless its going in the kitchen) You don't need to get them serviced, no chimneys to sweep and...

Unless we know what type of consumer unit the shower is connected to we can't really help you much because it could be the case that you will not get a RCD/RCBO for the CU and you will need to fit a modern replacement. If the shower CU is fed directly from the meter then before you are going...