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While the system is drained it would be worth flushing the rads through with a hose, then give it a chemical clean. At least that way will get rid of most of the muck rather than pushing it round the boiler and pump.

Other than the touch switches mentioned above, have you looked at remote control? Again they may not be compatible with CFLs but you could investigate.

Because then we could have ruled out most of the suggestions above without having to research and post answers.

It would have helped to have known that from the beginning :roll:

I'm still struggling to understand the overall concept I'm afraid. But as far as I can see, the choice is yours - there is no rule that says 'it must be ...' - after all you are the one to have to live with it. Again, a picture or diagram might make it easier to understand your design plan.

It might help if you could identify what timber has been used to make the treads and risers. I have seen several different combinations of thin plywood risers/MDF risers/softwood risers and MDF/softwood treads. The reason I mention this is that it will help decide which of the methods above will...

Why does it need to be 'quiet'? How noisy are your light switches? Edit: spelling :!:

Blimey, it even has a pit! :D Just clear out all the crap - that would do it for me!

Can we have a bit more information about the style - or even pictures - and what exactly you are trying to achieve please? Based on what you have said so far, the answer could be yes ... or there again, no.

Standard boiler efficiency ratings can be compared here: http://www.ncm-pcdb.org.uk/sap/searchpod.jsp?id=17 This is yours: http://www.ncm-pcdb.org.uk/sap/pcdbdetails.jsp?pid=26&id=005983&type=105&mid=000141

As I said, that's the theory and the story put about to justify it. I didn't say I believed it!

The theory behind cold-fill only appliances goes hand in hand with use of combi boilers rather than stored hot water systems. The theory goes that the appliance only heats water when required rather than using stored water which has been previously heated (therefore using valuable energy) and...

Air is warmed by convection. Radiant heat warms objects, hence radiant electric fires (old days), plaque heaters etc are used to direct heat, normally where people work in cold environments such as warehouses, garages etc.

She must have been a very dirty girl :twisted:

Shut off the supply to the header tank just as a safeguard. Remove the power from the pump, close both valves, put a tray and loads of old towels etc around to catch any leakage. Undo one of the pump connectors - slowly. You will soon know if they have closed fully or not! If not then do the...

You seem to be confused by the purpose of the pump. The central heating pump has nothing whatsoever to do with the supply to your taps/shower. Your method of connecting a hose between the taps is used to clear airlocks in the supply pipes NOT the central heating. You need to be clearer about...

Yes I would agree that is quite an acceptable usage and comparable with my own.

What controls do you have - programmer, stats, motorised valves etc etc? What type of property is it - detached, semi etc? Solid or cavity walls (insulated or not)? Exposed or sheltered location? Do you have baths or showers - how often? How well insulated is the house? Double-glazed? Do you...

Why don't they want fluorescent? Gives the best working light for a kitchen and easy to fit behind a pelmet.

I would replace the hose and run the machine for a couple of days. Clean those deposits off and take a look in a few days time to see how it looks then. Hopefully nothing too serious.