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overheat stat will be fine, its more than likely to be the primary thermistor but as tony said because its located iin the combustion chamber and the cover needs to be removed it should be an RGI for the job where as the other thermistor isnt as its not in the combustion chamber. thermistors...

ok so if your quite confident its under performing to be 100% sure you could do a gas rate on the boiler. would you be able to read how to do this? if its under performing it could be down to a choked heatplate as youve said or faulty HW sensor Ray

i would replace the new red venturi with a brown venturi and also there are 2 venturis in the fan the other is white and may as well replace it while your at it for a few quid but defo get rid of the red one ( i know its brandnew) and try brown, let us know how you go Ray

ive used lots of service kits from pin seals to the large diaphragms and seen often when the hw comes on makes the microswitch but wont travel back when the taps turned off leaving the boiler appear to be on hot water demand and causing it to over heat/ throw the pressure gauge about. i know...

fixed price BG repair is definitly the best option. what they can do thats diffrent is come out, check what the fault is and what could possibly be the cause. order up as many parts as they want, come back the next day and see what parts required and send the rest back.The repair will also come...

Snorky im just reading through this thinking and im wondering.... what colour was the new venturi the RGI fitted to the fan? also was it both venturis or only 1? Cheers Ray

i noticed your post lastnight but didnt want to reply as there was that many causes. Its very common for those seals to be faulty but its only usually a problem if the preheat isnt turned on or the boilers left to cool down. I assume the price quoted is to replace the heat plate and o-rings...

when you say if you running it faster it runs cold how much water are you drawing? do you have a water meter you could check or cut a 2litre plastic bottle and see how many times it can be filled in a minute? it could be as you said a blocked heat exchanger but id guess its just down to the...

I think they look pathetic on a wall and give a pathetic output but as focalpoint say they are 100% efficient :roll: better off with an electric fire and spending the money on a plasma above it Ray

if its a combi 130HE (GC47-075-04) o rings are part number 240812 size 20.64 x 2.62mm Ray

07 is a fault with the primary sensor on the boiler/ if you have the boiler on HW only and run the tap, when you turn off the tap does the boiler continue to stay on? this would indicate a faulty hw flow switch. if it does cut out id probably look at new sensors for both primary and HW...

you could have it serviced and ask the engineer to bring a service kit for the hw/3 way valve section but dont think id put much money into a repair as a replacement boiler might make more sense long term Ray

yes but as said before you'll need to follow the manufacturers instructions as the base unit will probably need vents and the flue will need adequate clearance outside Ray

a £15 bluetooth dongle into the side of your netbook with a 3G net connection with DIYnot in your favorites. Yeah fault finding courses can be good if you go to the correct one. first one i did with the company i started with was at the BG trainning centre and lasted a week but was very good...

i think your best bets to throw yourself into the deep end would you be self employed taking on your own repairs or working within a company? what about going to a fault finding course about component testing and boiler sequences? buy a netbook keep it with you and when you come to a fault...

Hi guys wondered if anyone had experience with the same problem Basicly cut a long story short had the van a year its on 63k done 20k in the year ive had it and its been faultless. Recently it cut out at a junction, started and ran fine for 1/4 mile before cutting out and refused to start. i...

last time i battled with a blow torch to replace the diverter valve a few days later the new 1 started sticking and played up with the heating (probably due to sludge in system) so a second diverter valve was needed before it worked it could possibly be the speed the new pump is set at check...

ill try again YOU NEED A NEW FAN ITS SEIZED BUT HAS POWER CAUSING IT TO HEAT UP. THE RESISTANCE YOU FEEL IS THE ELECTRIC FIELD CAUSED BY THE COIL BEING ENERGISED BUT DOESNT HAVE ENOUGH TO MAKE IT SPIN :lol: good luck

ive said you 100% dont need a pcb but do need a RGI to fit the required part.............. :?

id assume its a system boiler but by conventional poster means open vented. probably your CH zone valve stuck on Ray