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your right on track and require baxi part no 5111137 have a look on ebay, striaght foward repair too have a look at your manufacturers instructions for replacing Ray

sounds like the pcb's on the way out? will probably re-occur shortly im afraid Ray

I think a powerflush may be your best option (be it done by bg or someone else) . Even if you do try treating the water in your system with chemicals if pipes are completly blocked and not circulating i dont think you'd get much sucess also the magnafilter will do nothing if theres no...

the 330+ can be set between 8 to 30KW i think so does the complete range and you'd probably get a 3 year warrenty too only downside is i think its a peice of junk :lol: Probably better to try for another quote from someone who can come recommended for honest advice Ray

Just out of interest, could you show me a link to the course? is it one fundings avalible for or do you pay for yourself, need to have an employer for onsite trainning or do the college help find one etc? was just thinking for a friend. John id say its a good thing to go for but realisticly...

sounds like your hot waters gravity fed and your heatings pumped. so faulty pump id guess. Ray

DIY head and screwdriver ? youve lost me. I wouldnt advise anyone to go inside a boiler taking casings with seals off but seeing as they have and taking pictures for proof why not check if that lead theyve went to the bother taking a picture of is damp and is infact the problem they suspect...

why dont you have a look on which at what they recommend. Personally id recommend you get an Ariston Clas HE. Comes with a 5 year warrenty from the manufacturer so long as you have a yearly safety inspection and get BG out your life for 5years (add it up its probably going to endup the same...

try holding the reset knob in its position for 10/20 secs. If the pump runs and microswitch makes but still comes up with a pump error it could be the microswitch itself is faulty else could still be the pcb could you check the microswitch was making and breaking contacts ok? Ray

well i understand why you'd be upset boiler wouldnt of cost much more than that new and youve just plugged 350quid into it and its still broke. Parts can be much cheaper online but most people use merchants incase theyre let down online. Just need to give the guy a chance to fix it properly...

sounded like the pcb! flow switch is the one located on the top side of the diverter valve (the hot water microswitch is at the front of it. When the pump runs the pin should pop up and hit the microswitch so if its not doing that might need a clean/diaphragm/pump (probably just the first...

im tending not to agree Gordon. is the ICOS not a system boiler? so shouldnt have a diverter valve and would only be comming on if there was a fault with the wiring/zone valve/frost protection etc? when the boilers making noises does the display come up with any letters or numbers? Ray

i agree with that. maybe your agreement may make you feel under the impression its a service but infact only a safety check. A safety check on most condensing boilers so long as readings are ok you could do in 10mins. if its an open flued appliance it must be stripped down therefore takes...

older mini's had 2 pcb's an ignition + running pcb both dif prices. Newer mini's only have 1 pcb so more expensive. It wouldnt be out of order to have the pcb + 20% markup and then the price of whatever the agreed hourly rate was, then depends if the RGI was vat registered etc etc could be...

HE might have ruptured but faults most likely due to the expansion vessel being burst or flat. check posts on that but probably better to get the boiler serviced, HE cleaned and ask the RGI to check your expansion vessel + also that the safety valve is not now dripping outside Ray

as above generally expect if its definitly got power in then providing the o/heat stat hasnt tripped it would be the fan unit. Seems very strange why its happened the same time you were removing tiles though so id just double check the boilers definitly got power in (check the plug connection...

if youve got the space a break tank then boosted by a pump would be ideal. Last pump i bought was on the net from ireland workedout a good bit cheaper Ray

[/i] No problem then yep so long as you have an unobscured clearance your good to go. Ray

its a common problem on these and its probably due to the boiler being so sensitive to hot water passing through. Countless times i came to council properties who called me out on the basis of no hot water but there was always a tap with a slight drip. basicly if D's displayed id check all...

yeah your PRVs probably only went faulty due to the underlying problem with the expansion Vessel. Ray[/u]