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All depends what load the steel is carrying and what it is bearing onto. Plausible for it to be supported by the existing brickwork with slate between to make up the spacing. Slate crushing strength between 70 - 200N/mmm2, your supporting brickwork wii probably have a compressive strength of...

It's your cock put it anywhere you want to

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Hope not my shares have been plodding along nicely for a few weeks

When he does make sure you he gives you the dynamic pressure at the meter and hopefully one at the kitchen tap so the losses in the supply pipe are determined which can then be crossed checked with the theoretical losses.

Well if I was asked to draw a front elevation of your house it could be at the walls looking from the South or the walls looking from the West, either way your proposed extension would be behind the walls forming the principal elevation view as per comment 4. It certainly looks as if the...

Winters coming ........... now I remember in 1963..........

Wait for the 75kg/m2 of snow loading to happen ;-)

As Wayners states, appears to be just a strengthening of existing timbers probably due to doubling of roof weight due to conc tiles, all looks good. Funny thing is if it hadn't been strengthened you would have looked in loft and thought looks OK up here (unless things had started to bend but...

Statistically he'll be dead and if he got to that age he probably would not care a monkies or understand whats happening about him

You have to adjust the angle of cut on the 2 pieces of coving. If they are at a true 90 then angles of cut is 45 degree, if wall is 2 degrees out (say) the angles of cut need to be increased or decreased by 1 degree depending which way wall angle is out. Or run fish with wall and be creative...

I have smart heating, when I am cold I turn it on, when I am hot, I turn it off, how smart is that?

:giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle:

Or possibly one of these with hosepipe connected https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-3-4-/82086

What, try and guesstimate the rate of flow with a cloth over the flow? If your musing about the blanking cap is correct then possibly try and manufacture a connection to this point with a length of hose connected to it so flow can then be turned on and measured by discharge rate into a bucket...

Look at clause 4.14 of Approved Doc C of building regs for guidance

Well if he goes through the water company and then they accept the responsibility of it as a shared drain then they will be responsible for the maintenance and repair of the section of drain currently in your garden which at the moment is your responsibility, what is there to lose

Have a look a Kingston K118 brochure for some guidance

I guess it all depends whether you have a soot covered flue when you decide to cap it off as to any ensuing problems, mine must have been OK???

That has been my philosophy on the couple of chimney's I have capped, blocked off at the top, blocked off at the bottom, no moisture to get in from above or below and I'll treat it as if it is cavity wall space like what the rest of the house has