It is heart warming that we both agree that your condescending response to the OP was unnecessary but it probably made you feel like Donald Trump at the time
Because it was not obvious to the OP, a bit like it wasn't obvious to you why the OP needed this forum and why you needed this forum to tell you that. And a bit like it not being obvious to me whether Nikita is in the male or female format so I stuck to identifying the poster as OP.
Hi, builder at bottom of garden is proposing to construct poolroom/gym. So what was once on open vista at the bottom of my garden will now become a Captain Tom brickwork carbuncle . I plan to object based on something I saw once about impairing the enjoyable use of ones garden or some sort of...
If you are happy with your calcs go for it, I used 3 different sources for my calcs and they all differed ( its not that exact a science) so based everything on the larger fig.
Taking the standard Delta T50 fig and working with Kudox radiators in theory you have around 10000BTU output, perhaps they were sized on a T30 Delta which would give you 5000BTU?
No different from millions of other houses that do not have any paving stones cracks for the water to drain down through and so drains wherever the rain lands
Tolerant in what way? If it was oversized for the required output it would still heat the rads up until your room thermostat indicated the necessary temp had been reached and then switch off, possibly do the job faster and work less efficiently (but was only 75% in the first place)
Not sure what the bucket test consists of but if I was trying to clear an high level air lock I would be trying to push water through the system as fast/forceful as possible. To this end I would disconnect the radiator and if possible run a discharge hosepipe from each of the valves to some...
Yes, go bigger and let the TRV do the controlling, main thing is confirm your boiler out put capable of providing necessary btus and everything else falls into place ( after you have balanced the radiators)
That's not even the length of a brick so it's not going to distribute any load more than resting it directly on the brickwork ( of course it could be there just make up a level to rest the beam on but at 5.2 that's a fairish size
Well it will be detrimental to the calc so best play safe and assume it is a solid wall or you could do calc for both types of wall and take a middish value depending on how much of the gap is filled with debris
Since it breaks the continuity of the brickwork (assuming no snots or headers) and hence stops heat conducting directly across the wall from the inside to the outside I would consider it to be an air gap and apply a standard 0.18 R value