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You’re right, all the ones that I could push open at the bottom, were because the cams weren’t lining up with the keeps. First window was because the keeps were too high, lowered them by 10mm or so… compression on this one is so strong at the base now it’s forcing the top to not be air tight...

Yeah, gave that a try. Made no notable difference, still gaps at the bottom of the windows. Also noticed that when the windows are closed theres a little more play at the bottoms than at the top. Eg it’s easier to push the door open / away from the frame at the bottom corner if applying a bit...

Could it be the cams are broke? I’ve tried giving them a good 1/8th of a turn at a time but doesn’t seem to make any difference. Though they don’t seem overly difficult to turn. Less resistance than I expected. Also I don’t really see a grey dot on them. Maybe a little vertical grey line...

Should've added a photo of the bit ive been adjusting....the little cylinders here are a 3mm allan key bit. But dont seem to be having any affect. Adjusting them as it was the only tutorial I saw where the windows had the same sort of mechanism as mine. Any ideas anyone? :-)

Hi, Super straight forward question, sorry if this is stupid. Noticed quite a few drafts on the UPVC windows in my home and could only find USA tutorials on how to adjust (which the mechanisms looked totally different to mine).... anyway, for compression/pressure adjustments. Is it an allan...

130mm More is more though, right?

Will definitely use that for the carpeted areas. Most of the finishing of the renovations will end up being engineered wood with sunken carpets. Btw just while I’m doing it - for loft areas with no insulation. Does the first layer HAVE to be 100mm in the direction of the joists and 200 over...

Thanks, yeah, will do. We've just been packing wool everywhere to be honest but I know that's anything but cost effective. We really should be foaming more. It's a bit of a nightmare down there to be honest, 100s of electrical cables from the consumer unit, i've a spark coming to really spend a...

Lots of gaps and drafts, some recent renovative work not sealed properly round windows and doors. Likely solved with caulk/silicone. All skirting boards on every floor..., all floorboards over suspended floor. Soil stack boxing not sealed properly (piping air from crawl space beneath ground...

Thanks for the tip, In a lot of ways I’m glad it wasn’t more positive as I knew from the hive readouts there was an obvious problem here, was just struggling to focus in on what. For the hardboard can I get away with the thinner 3mm variant? How come it needs to be wetted and left to dry? And...

Well today's results confirm that im not crazy (obsessed is a different discussion.) With a 1 being good and a 15 being the worst, the guy said we were off the scale. Unmeasurably bad. He showed me round the property to where the air was being pulled. Not surprised, but shocked. Every...

Foam / Gun & Silicone/ Gun ready and waiting, check!

FYI Just bought the Pro IOS (£480 version) hopefully reveals some atrocities in the insulation / weakspots. Also have an air test booked for this Friday. Also hoping this will reveal some of the more leakier parts of the property with regards to air flow. Even if they dont find anything obvious...

thanks, its something i'll investigate this week. Sounds an easy job to sort.

Was not aware of that! I shall call them in the morning, thanks!

Glad you got it sorted. For the sockets could you feel a draft coming out of the actual plug socket? Or do I need to remove the fascia to see if it’s a problem? They do all feel cold to touch, though they are brass.

Sure, but enough to do this? Just got a better video of it. Fabric blowing from draft?

One of the areas i've noticed as a spot where there's often a notable draft is on the landing by the large landing window. I notice it when on my face when im sort of half way up the stairs. Probably clearer to explain in this video, - Landing draft The way that fabric on the stairs appears...

Currently 4/5 degrees outside. 14 inside (after having the heating on for 2.5hrs, was 9.1 inside this morning when I woke) I’m sure they’re insulated because - we’ve had a guy come out to quote us for the foam type CWI, when he put his camera in he said we had glass wool battens. Disappointed...

See attached, readings in m3 11:34AM - 65076.79 12:34PM - 65080.31 13:34 - 65083.39 First hour we used 3.52 m3 Second hour we used 3.08 m3 We’re with bulb, so using their conversion figures / cost 1m3 = 11kwh, 10.3p per Kw hr First hour cost = (3.7 X 11) x 0.103 = £4.19 Second...