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thanks, so is it a simple case that if I lower the flow temp / turn the gauge down on the boiler so it's running at 70c (instead of 84c) that is essentially me running at T50? Or is it that newer rads are just more efficient with a view to more naturally operate at a lower temperature?

Were the rads running properly? :- Bit of a mix, some boilers evenly hot, some hotter at the top than the bottom. Yes too hot to touch, well certainly too hot to hold for a number of seconds. What room temp did I want/achieve - Ideally a temperature of 17degrees would've been ample, generally...

Thanks, when you say 'new' how new do you mean? Could it be the ones from 2008 in this property were also 50 deg? And how do I know the new ones I want to buy are rated this way...

Thanks, if mine is 90% efficiency (as per the manual) I should expect the flow temperature to be 75C and a return of 50C? And the rads should have 75C going in and returning 65C? What is the best way to measure this? The present rads were somewhere between not great and OK through winter, but...

Thanks, so given mine is a condensing boiler, does that confirm I could/should really be running it on a lower temperature and adding more rads? Is the temperature im running it at dictating whether I should be using T50 or T30? Mentioned on a seperate reply it's just set to MAX. LCD readout...

Thanks, that made sense to me (finally!) :- Yes only replacing radiators in the ground floor hall/dining room. They were all double panel double convector types and will be done away with, likely in place of Triple column ones of a similar height/width....the ones on the 1st floor/top floor...

How can I know for sure which DT is appropriate for my boiler? I believe mine is in the 90% efficiency range. A rated…Or am I thinking about this totally wrong? as part of the renovation work on the ground floor, about 6 rads have been took off the walls (4 X double panel, double connector, 2 X...

The property was extended in 2008, rads appear to have all gone in around then. And boiler apparently went in around 2015. I assume that would be considered a modern condensing boiler, though again not certain on this as WB said that model of boiler began production in 2005. Honestly I’m sorry...

It’s a larger footprint than average yes. Originally a bungalow converted to 3 stories. So the square footage really adds up. I’ve used a few calculators online, entered all the radiator sizes, and whether they’re single/double panel… with single or double convectors etc…and added on 3kw for...

Hi all, As part of some renovations, having some older radiators replaced with newer ones. Want to take the opportunity to maybe add a couple rads but without asking too much of the boiler. Wanted to ask, when working out the total BTU / wattage, should I be calculating at T60 or T50? My...

Bit of an update on this one. Had dyno-rod out to have a look at the drains. They couldnt get cameras down them but did unblock the drain by vent 3. (on photo below for refrerence) They also put some illuminous green dye down each of the drains to see if that was seeping through to the...

I’d say there’s an inch (or two max) clearance between the joist and the inner skin wall where the gaps are for air bricks 4 and 5. I’d assume “someone” would have to take out the course below the current gaps in the inner skin. Allowing the z duct to just slide in (tm). Easy for 4. Harder for...

Yeah fair enough. Also trying to balance the coldness of the property though, wondering if mechanical pulling the air exhausting out would cause less drafts through the floor boards etc as I assume the air would be more aggressively guided to the duct rather than up through the ground floor...

Yeah fair enough Yeah fair enough thanks, cant hurt to dig up a bit. I'm hoping when the vent at the front of the property is properly ducted that will atleast give the sub floor some through draft. Im assuming the drains were leaking for alot longer than when the extension was added to the...

True, but if no water ever runs to those potentially broken drains again from end of April-ish. Eventually the damp wall problem would fix itself wouldnt it as the source of water would cease at the point of when the drains were moved when we extend... Or is that also overly optimistic? Yeah...

I see. Well, we're due to have a rear extension done in the summer, forcing us to relocate the drains by vent 4 and 5 anyway. In essence as the source of the problem would then be dealt with, would that allow the problem to heal itself? The drains by 4 and 5 are draining ok so wont rod them...

@JohnD @Loofah Thanks for your guidance re: drains. It led me to find some stuff that wasn't even on my radar. Couple video links below showing the issues I found on vents 1-5, with some questions based on the findings. Especially on the 2nd video. Air Brick Issues (Vents 1, 2, 3) Air Brick...

Yes, thanks, I thought as much re: clearing the airbricks and getting 6 and 7 reinstated. For the partially visible ones (3,4,5) that are mounted so high, they'll need the periscope Z vent things so they can vent properly right? Especially for 4 and 5 due to that big parallel running joist...

Thanks for the detailed response @JohnD, I'm just uploading a video or two now to show my findings off of the back of your helpful reply. In the meantime, re: joist colour at vent 5, those are all burnt and charred by what looks like an old welding mishap. As alot of the disused copper pipes...

Hi all, I've been addressing a bunch of issues i've noticed this winter. One of which has been tracking down the source of high humidity (70%+) through the dwelling. Having setup a bunch of digital temperature / humidity readouts in parallel, i've noticed the highest humidity by some way is...