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I am looking at re-doing a bathroom, and I imagine pulling off the current plastic sheet tiles will decimate the plasterboard/wall they are on. As a result I am looking at literally cutting this wall in half, and removing the entire board the tiles are fixed to, and replacing it with a water...

Many thanks Ree, currently exploring underneath them with a boroscope before I give it a go. Your advice was dead helpful!

Bathroom will be empty yes, and yes I'll be buying a circular saw/whatever tool is best for the job. I don't remember seeing any screws on previous excursions under the carpet! Thanks mate.

I'm in a relative new build, 8 years old ish, and am looking at installing a wet room in our bathroom. Can anyone advise on the least painful way if removing the chipboard tongue & groove boards, and replacing them? Will be installing underfloor heating so will take the whole floor up...

The door can already take a 25-20mm rise in the bathroom floor due to very very thick carpet in the bedroom having required the door to be trimmed. Edit: what about having the whole underfloor heating system under the floorboard, with some thick insulation? Would the chipboard floor and tiles...

Looking at having wet underfloor heating done in our bathroom, but all the floorboards are tongue & groove, glued down etc. Would it be hugely detrimental to insulate under the floor boards, then lay the pipes in their channeled housings on top of the floorboards, having the floorboards...

Thanks mate, does anyone know what the insulation requirement is for underfloor heating to be viable? i would probably be able to get 25mm insulation on top of the concrete, but wouldn't be able to add much more depth then that. Cheers

For a kitchen & dining room knock through we are looking at wet underfloor heating for it. Approx 30sqm in total. The house is a relative new build (2007 Bryant home) , and when we had the lounge carpets replaced found a concrete/screed(?) floor under it. Now, with wet underfloor...

No Multi-meter i'm afraid. I have the electrician coming out on Friday out of curiosity and has offered to talk me through the wiring if I am still concerned about it. The colour matches up with the above layout from what I can tell^ However, after some more hours tinkerng with it I have...

A google of honeywell valve and boiler firing at random brought up the thread below. Wading through the 'debate' it seemed a sticking valve was the issue? http://www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/fitting-new-syncro-switch-on-honeywell-2-port-valve.318278/ edit: The below is another...

Ok then, took the wall plate/receiver off the wall and had a look at the wiring and it looks to be wired correctly, as per thermostat instructions anyway. I also spoke at great length to the electrician who fitted it and he said it is a very typical job for him and he had no doubt over the...

Thanks very much for posting that. very grateful! :) I will have a look when I get home as best I can, but I fear that beyond the basics of electrics/plumbing logic I am in unknown territory. The fact that the thermostat works perfectly, on demand, for both hot water & heating AND shuts...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72120595/IMG_20131010_214337.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72120595/IMG_20131010_212414.jpg Yes, there is one down the side that is more or less out of reach, and one honey well valve as you posted right in front of the cylinder...

It is a 2 port Honeywell valve, as you show there! The issue is definitely hot water related, due to the rads all staying cold when the boiler is coming on at random. The grundfos pump runs for much longer then the boiler does, and associated pipework is very hot - hot enough that if the rads...

Another attempt at getting to the bottom of this problem! Not had a chance to call a plumber out because of the fact the system still works perfectly heating/hot water on demand/timed, and I can't replicate the problem. They also won't return my fking calls! frown [I am ignoring the two...

After a few days of trying different things I have isolated it some more. Ultimately a plumber will be called, but I want to try and see if I can get a good idea of it first. BOTH bathroom (ensuite & family) rads, unless they are totally *off* on the TRV valve, cause the boiler to come on...

Yes it is. The wired thermostat, will be there to monitor the internal temp of the water? If we have the 'timed water' on for 4 hours, and it hits 'max temp' in 2 hours, then it shuts itself off unless temp drops? yes, I believe this is the case. I don't think the cylinder stat controls...

Apologies, I should have listed them at the beginning. The boiler is a Potterton promax HE plus, but with the standard wall mounted thermostat & programmer replaced with a wireless Heatmiser PRT/HW-WTS. The electrian who wired it in said it was a new model to him, but was a direct swap...

Thermostat works absolutely fine, as timed for both hot water and central heating. One on a timerone set for different temps throughout the day to maintain. Other are mainly focused on early mornkng/when we get back from work whilst this issue tends to be mid-late evening. Pump running due...

I'm totally stuck, after an evening of trying to get to the bottom of it, I'm clueless. Boiler fires at random, seems to heat hot water up despite thermostat showing it as off. If Rad in bathroom is on, it gets scorching hot - all other rads are cold. Thermostat on/off makes no difference...