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Mostly, water meter is located outside and the householder is responsible for the pipe from his boundary in. If the leak is inthe meter or one of its immediate connections , its worth calling the water company. I think they always own the meter.

Before anything else, find out how to turn the water off up the line - outside, maybe inthe pavement. Is this some form of self powering stop cock ? How does it work ?

Hold a clip on the wall to see where the gutter would be - you really want the roof to drip into the middle of the gutter. If you have room, it would be better to screw lenghs of wooden battons or boards to the wall then mount the gutter on the wood. Get pressure treated if you can. This way...

Will the old copper tails fit into the new tap ?

Put a spirit level on the pipe to see the actual fall.

I am just a diy but I have never come accross a boiler with main flow and return pipes of 15mm. They are nearly always 22mm in domestic houses up to 4 bed detached.

What JohnD was implying is some mixer taps let the cold water run up the hot pipe thus over filling the hot tank. This happens if you have mains cold pressure but low pressre hot at a mixer tap or shower.

You' ll lose the communal emergency shut off for your flat.

A few points but only my opinion as i'm no expert : 1 Rainwater is not supposed to go down the sewer. Rainwater should go down into the earth i.e soakaway or down a rainwater drainage system if there is one in you locality. 2 Waste water must go down a sewer so as not to pollute the land 3 Any...

Generally speaking, the time clock (programmer) sends a voltage to the thermostat strapped to the HW cylinder. The thermostat then sends a voltage to a valve to open the pipe that heats the HW. When this valve opens it then sends a voltage to the boiler and pump which fire up to heat the water...

Surely its fancy words for an air conditioning unit mounted inside out. The cooling part is outside and hot part inside. Trouble is when the outside temperature is low, the unit has to work very hard to cool the outside (hence extract heat).

Yes ! Stick with oil.

DP is right - that expansion pipe coming out of the HW tank is the HW side expansion - nothing to do with the boiler. The boiler must have a separate expansion to the small f&e tank which you say is blocked - get the plumber to cut out the blocked bit and replace it.

Find an appropriate bsp fitting and run it in and out a few times.

Grab adhesive -no more nails etc. must be for outdoor use

Hope there is a separate F&E pipe somewhere else ! That pipe next to the cylinder looks like just an air vent ? However DP you have hit on the problem of the cold rads - the bottom pipe from the cylinder should be restricted so you can balance the flow - a manual rad valve would do.

Just one point - where in the circuit is the HW primary takenfrom. If it is part way round then it would be difficult to separate off the CH. You can cetainly control the HW temp with a valve next to the HW cylinder, controlled by a thermostat strapped to the cylinder. I think you should take...

Pardon me but the old hole is a large square hole so will still need re-working inside and out so you still need scaffolding etc. The old boiler is a balanced flue, not fan assisted. Better a new hole which will give a better fit for the new flue.

Tell him where you want the boiler, same space underneath as the old one. Otherwise get another quote. I think they can drill a new hole and install the new flue from the inside. Trouble is blocking up the old hole and rendering over with cement on the second floor.

Sorry I said temp values ; The same applies to the HW & CH programme settings - they are fixed values that can be saved to memory - the clock needs continous power.