Search results

I was going to make a similar suggestion, but there is a lot more than basic Ohm's Law involved in connecting components directly across the mains, and plenty of scope for making something dangerous. One thing is voltage ratings of resistors. Also, I suspect that 4k7 would put rather more...

Yes, I bought something like this for an indicator for my boiler wiring centre, and you could pull out the led from the mount, but there's no guarantee. Sorry, I just looked for one of them to see but it has long disappeared.

Well, it's this kind of thing: L295000MAA ARCOLECTRIC (BULGIN LTD) Different prices from different suppliers, and always a gamble if it will fit. Type the name into google to see it.

That may be why it seems 'low power'.

Some people struggle with sarcasm.

I guess the obvious question is; which way will the cable(s) run? And where to?

Yes, that's because the two sockets share a 13A filter element.

You do surprise me. I'd love to see a photograph.

I was intending to correct the statement that fires were not caused by fluff, nor overloaded sockets. This would seem to be a message having a negative effect.

...in this one particular case.

If there's a choice between making connections in an accessible accessory, such as a socket, or burying a junction box under the floorboards, then the former is by far the best. Even if it means a bit more work.

So I still don't get it. What is it you do whilst wiring that matches your statement "we stick to the standard of 13 amps for the whole item." Use thinner wire? Not use double sockets? Stick labels on double sockets telling people to calculate the full load they are plugging in?

I am baffled as to how ebee forces the user of the double sockets he fits, not to load them with more than 13A. I can only assume he always powers it from an FCU. (This must look awfully ugly.) If this is not the case I can't see how he can claim to wire them up assuming a maximum of 13A. What...

At the other end of the wire from the plug there should be connection terminals. Simply remove the new hob's cable and connect the original cable at that point. You will still have the plug and cable that came with it to refit in case the hob is faulty.

Someone must have been able to fit the old hob. By taking it out there is likely to be a cable that could connect to the new one. You don't have to use the new plug, and in fact it may be better not to.

So, a) "all sockets - single, twin,triple are rated at 13A total for the whole unit" is therefore demonstrably not true b) "we stick to the standard of 13 amps for the whole item." No, you do. Possibly because they are 13A sockets? No, it doesn't. I don't blame you for the confusion because...

I think it's a long way from saying that we should do what we can to keep people safe, to: The first is a moral statement about how people should work, and the second is 'quoting' a law (or regulation) whose existence we have no way of knowing. I happen to believe that quoting non-existent laws...

Yes I know that, I have the spec too. I don't see the bit where it say a double socket is rated at 13A. And some manufacturers specifically state 13A per socket for a double. The whole spec situation is a mess, but the original statement ("all sockets - single, twin,triple are rated at 13A total...

Well done!

Please, give a citation. Which law or regulation are you quoting?