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But the boiler does this automatically. The root cause is the circulation, why range rate the ****ing thing to suit the upstairs working only? I've just watched my boiler operate (I know, but the misses has dancing on ice on the TV, so this seemed like good entertainment in comparison)...

It modulates down when it gets a return temp higher/quicker than it would expect at full output. As far as I know it can then calculate what output matches the rate at which the return temp is rising towards max temp and choose the correct output to suit. Someone correct me there if i'm wrong...

Depends what system your working on. I always cap cold main to F&E if it's an overnight thing, don't fancy the ballvalve letting go at silly O clock and me tucked up in bed :lol:

:lol: Not on an ecotec My heat output equals about 8kw and I have/had no problems using factory setting (MAX@24kw) The boiler will recognise a sharp temp increase and adjust accordingly. Check my post on page 1, it's in black and white direct from the MI. Sam

If you link the 2 together then either you will be filling the system with the filling loop until you realise water is ****ing out the overflow from the F&E tank, or the combi will be running at a low pressure determined by the static head supplied by the F&E tank. It could work but depends on...

Well unless you know the installer doing the job, the number of untrustworthy engineers and 'powerflush specialists' far outnumber the good :lol: To me, powerflushing is a license to print money.

Buy a system boiler and be done with it?

Don't forget the most popular, powerflushed with no guarantee :lol:

Is it microbore pipework with manifolds? If circulation was OK, then all radiators would get to a similar temp but boiler would cut in and out on stat, slowing down the whole heating process. Could even just be air if the installer hasn't cleared it properly. Try turning all but 1 of...

Currently in the process of removing a stain now. Taken me days of scrubbing and various processes and wish i'd just ripped it out and started again. Part of the process involved using a power washer. In a few small places there looks like damp mould patches under the surface of the wood like...

Read the vaillant manual, rating is not required as boiler is fully modulating depending on demand. I've got an 831 in my house and rated down to 19kw just for the hell of it but can confirm it made F all differance to performance or fuel bill. 824 doesn't have the best HW output at 9.2...

I don't care what others think of me on here, including you. I come onto this site to learn, and help others if I can in some of my spare time. I've been a registered user on this site for years but regularly **** off for a few months when the usual silverbacks start chirping off about who's...

Well people come here to learn don't they? More useful than the post you made thats for sure :lol:

Fixing to timber framed support would be fine providing it is plasterboarded or suitably fire proofed. Plasterboard has an adequate fire rating. Some boilers don't require this but for the sakes of a sheet of plasterboard its not really worth discussing. HTH Sam :)

If you do have a precast flue it probably won't work anyway, there useless. Balanced flue is the safest and most efficent IMO. If the pipe in the loft joins to an adaptor block then it will be a precast. Part of a fire service on a precast should include cleaning the twin wall metal pipe...

:roll: I'm a little bit baffled pioner? There is no need to move the cylinder? Also there are various suggestions above which may improve the set up considerably. I hope you do get it to how you will be happy for your sake. All the best Sam

http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/95c-00000s/95c-10820.pdf Sorry should have said Honeywell Y plan, not sure on other manufacturers, but would be interested to know. We only fit honeywell gear though so may have jumped the gun. This was kindly pointed out to us and the customer...

Hi pioner, Sorry I haven't replied sooner. Making those connections into the system won't work. You will also create a big probem as you will lose the majority of your gravity circulation. As said previously, it is possible to remove the cylinder, but the heat leak circuit would have to be...

Y plan is suitable up to 26kw only. We always fit S plan's now regardless, easier to wire, simpler in design. As said though, the unvented cylinder needs to have its own zone valve, so you would be better off using an S plan. Also, you could use your existing combi to run an S plan, no...