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remove tap head and you will see splines on tap spindle have stripped the plastic in the tap head probably. you will need a replacement tap head or set of 4 unless you want different looking taps in your bathroom.

You need the adaptors/reducers to suit the diameter of your waste(s). you can get them in pushfit or solvent weld varieties that fit in the boss on your tee after you have drilled out the centres.

Try typing in "curved radiators" on the link above.

If shower is not used the water in the trap may be lost allowing sewer gasses to get in or the water may become putrid. Pour some diluted bleach into the shower trap from time to time to solve both possibilities.

Replace with new pipe. You don't want to have a bodge that may leak and cause water damage where you cannot see it.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-x-Rubber-Washer-3-4-Bath-Tap-Etc-/150444782778?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item23073534ba

Adjust the inlet valve to bring the water up the 10mm to see if that has an effect on the problem before you go to any bother/expennse with syphon changing.

You will have to get access to cistern to see what the particular problem is. There should be a panel that can be removed for access.

If you have no cold water tank then both cold and hot taps will be at mains pressure so there should be no problem with balancing pressures that you get with mains fed cold and hot water at lower pressure.

If it is the motor that's gone you could swop it for the one in the 3 port valve. Isolate the power first.

Fit valve inside to isolate tap in winter to avoid freezing problem. You also need to fit a check valve under the regs.

The reason the expansion pipe is not hot is nothing to do with insulation. It means that there is no flow in the pipe.

Is the suppy from the AGA pumped? If not and it is a gravity feed then you are depending on hot water rising in the system and you appear to have the radiator below the the point where it is tapped off in the loft.

Could anyone give me a very rough guide to the cost to supply and install approx 30m of facia to a 2 storey detached house. Approx half to horizontal and half to gable overhangs.

RE my last suggestion about switching actuator heads. This would only work if you changed over the wiriing in the wiring box as well and that may be a step too far for you. However it would be worthwhile to remove the head and check that the spindle is turning and the ball is not stuck...

RE my last suggestion about switching actuator heads. This would only work if you changed over the wiriing in the wiring box as well and that may be a step too far for you. However it would be worthwhile to remove the head and check that the spindle is turning and the ball is not stuck...

Could be the actuator but it might be the tank thermostat or the programmer. or the wiring. If the heating valves are working OK ie lever moving when you switch heat on and off you could try switching the heads assuming they are the same model, have detachable actuators and are close enough...

you say you have 3 actuator valves. this looks as if your heating is divided into 2 zones each controlled by a 2 port valve with the other controlling the hot water. By switching heating on and off at the programmer and watching what happens to the levers on the valve you will be able to...

Might be cheaper/easier to get an new tap that is suitable for low head.

had this problem a few months ago with my bosch dishwasher. it turned out that the other end of the outlet pipe where it connected inti the sink waste was blocked by debris. Disconnect that and have a look.