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You only have to take branches (spurs) off the flow and return pipes into the extension as far as the most distant radiator. You do not need to bring them back again in a loop. Pipe size will depend on number of new radiators and their sizes. If one or perhaps two you could do this in 15mm...

Is it a torbeck valve. Search on google for pictures. If so these have an internal filter which can become blocked. Isolate water and dismantle by unscrewing large ring, noting arrangement for reassembly. Clean filter and reassemble.

Old TRV's only suitable for flow in one direction through them. Most new ones are bidirectional. What previous post is suggesting is that when new boiler was fitted the direction of flow through the system was reversed perhaps. Old TRVs are noisy if you reverse the flow through them.

As long as the water in the bowl is higher than the top of the outlet in the bowl the water seal should prevent smells from that direction. Other possibilities: Check that the U bend in the bath is full of water. In houses where people shower rather than bath the water seal can be lost...

If I read you right the inlet and the out let to the rads will be at the top of rad as fitted. You might have a problem with water circulating in rad as hot water will tend to stay at top and flow across and out rather than circulate. Also where will the bleed valve be??

with a one pipe system when the water gets to a tee off for a rad it has the choice to keep travelling in the main pipe or go up into the rad and back out the other side. The resistance through a rad isn't much different to the resistance in the pipe between the tappings so enough water goes...

You might have 2 tanks in roofspace. If it is not the ballcock(s) come back with further info and get further suggestions.

You'll be connecting into the top of the soil pipe then?? Are you boxing the soil pipe in or leaving it exposed?? Just curious

Shouldn't be too much of a problem with water pipes as these are generally run up and hidden in the U shape of the pedestal. Are you connecting the sink waste into the soil pipe at the pedestal or taking it down below the floor? and connecting into the soil stack outside?

To Troy Dear oh dear. And this thread has been meaningful debate? It looked to me to be mainly a trading of insults. I kept out until you insulted DG123 when he made the most obvious of comments about what real life is about. As for glory; if you think that posting on this is a glorious...

Troy Such repartee. Obviously a fan of Oscar Wilde, GB Shaw, WS Churchill etc. Troy when you find yourself in a hole stop digging.

Scott My mother told me never to get into a battle of wits with an unarmed man. This is why I have avoided responding to anything Troy has said to date.

Cold at bottom may indicate that bottom "channel" is blocked with sludge. System may need flushing. Again plenty of threads on this if you search.

It is just as simple as that!

To add to Chris's excellent advice: It might be useful to add weight to the tray equivalent to your bodyweight while the silicone is curing. This might help if the floor is flexing excessively when the shower is occupied.

One other point regarding rudeness/ungraciousness on this forum: I find that, of the people who have questions answered, those that post a word of thanks or confirm the source of problem and solution are very much in the minority. It must be galling for those who take the trouble to answer...

Fernox do a leak sealer. It has had mixed reviews on this forum but may be a cheap fix if leak is not too bad. However leak usually due to corrosion so you need to look at flushing and adding inhibitor to limit any corrosion damage elsewhere.

How smooth/flat is the base? If it is flat enough you would be better to support it on plywood on top of the frame rather than on the frame itself. I wasn't being facetious when I referred you to the manufacturer. The least you would expect them to supply for something relatively unusual...

Combined feed and vent should be in 22mm pipework. Gasguru wrote Should there not always be a vent teed off the combined F & V pipe and arching up over the tank?

Most unusual set up indeed. Is there a valve of any type on this connecting branch?