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I regularly specify the likes of Cordek for use in office loading and factory loading conditions. Let alone domestic.

It depends if there is any agent on the wall. Capillary action could potentially work its way to areas of damp. My senior Hydrostatics lecturer at university used to tell us to think of capillary action as putting two panes of glass together, eventually water from the bottom works its way up...

I presume that the paint bubbling is near to the leak and not just constant. I imagine if the roof is in need of repair the paintwork and any soffits may be in need of some work. It’s not uncommon for timbers to be untreated upon installation and treated after. Therefore any water ingress...

I would be relucant to cover the electrical cable that seems to be running in the boxing out with insulation, as im sure this wont comply. If I remember the sizing is based ona formula that isnt correct with insulation over the top, you can fix it to a batten however to disapate heat...I...

As stated at the beginning there is no question over the competency of the fitter. I am fitting the kitchen myself and I am ensuring that I can fit all the units without the need for them to be removed when the gas appliance fitter comes. Due to regulations or incorrect wiring etc. I.e is the...

The instructions for wiring the oven are: This appliance should be wired into a 13 A double pole switched fused spur outlet, having 3 mm contact separation and the fuse rating reduced to 3 amps. This should be placed in an easily accessible position adjacent to the appliance, preferably above...

the socket is controlled by a FCU, which is spurred of the existing ring main. (I believe from what I can follow of the wiring). Testing has lead me to blieve this as well.

hmm thats not good I will have a look at the instructions again and see what the best course of action is. Possibly fitting a connector box or similar in place of the double socket?

Probably a dead easy one for all you lot in the know. I have a Radiator thats not getting hot. I have tried bleeding it and all the other radiators, there is no air in it at the moment. The pipe is hot up to the entrance to the TRV. If I bleed water out of the radiator then it gets warm...

spot on thanks for the reply. Im thinking that a 13A in the FCU will suffice for that as well, the cable is 2.5mm flex as and seems very new. It is routed behind a timber partition so cant see it getting hot either. However both the Hobs and the Oven have no plugs on so I will need to put...

Hi there, Before we get into the relms of part P I wont be doing any of this work so, it is just to give me an idea of the access I should leave to route cables and if any work is even required. I am in the process of refitting a kitchen, the original kitchen hobs and socket used a FCU off...

No worries cheers, forgot about the old 1/2 and 15mm thing. Being of the metric generation it catches me sometimes. Just wanted to check there wasnt a pipe available before adding a small piece or buying a pipe with a valve built in. appreciated.

Right I have had a quick look again on screwfix and found 3 results for "15mm x 3/4" : http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-connector-15mm-x-3-4-x-500mm/96407 this doesnt have a female 15mm end and would require me to remove the isolator valve as mentioned previously. as would the...

I must be useless at searching for them as I cant see any with 3/4 female end and 15mm female end? I will have another look must have missed it. If I’m honest I’m new to the whole flexi pipe scene.

Im busy replacing the bath suite and installed two 15mm isolator valves onto the ends of the existing 15mm cold and hot supply pipes for the bath. I am struggling to find a 15mm x 3/4 inch braided flexi pipe is this something I might find or have I done something against the grain? I can...

As above if there are only a couple of courses then you will have to be careful anyway so might be worth removing and making good after. Im sure though this wont look the best from outside but would answer the question of how much temp works loading you have. If in any doubt about the bearing...

I know that mine has a sealed coller around it to flash the hole correctly. Can you get up there and have a look?

Sorry for sounding thick, you are correct. I forgot that the red was the common in the switch in question (im not at the house now) and wire nut is me mistaking my terminology again. I meant a connector not the screw on type. No worries anyway I have my head round it now eventually...

Ok thanks once again for the help. Got a couple of other hopefully simple questions. More reassurances I hope.... I have bought an MK modular grid switch as only one of the switches will need to be an intermediate the other will need to be a usual two way. I have no problems with the two...

No worries that seems pretty clear. I will give it a go in the light tomorrow. Much appreciated for the help everyone.