Search results

Just as an aside male sure you pick up a rad spanner before draining as the tails will need changing and bang some inhibitor in before refilling assuming its not a primatic cylinder of course.

Are the flats converted from an origianal house? Maybe knock on the basement flat the original stopcock may well be in there?

I might be wrong but I think its 12.5 % of the joist depth so it would be over. also a bad idea to cut neat the end of joists. Is re routing outside an option to consider if not a neat boxing job and it will soon be forgotten I tend to only notice things when they are done then soon forget...

If it loses its pressure quickly or the leak starts up straight after refilling it would confirm the leak is indeed in pipes to radiator. As others have said check around rad valves and anyhing obvious with dry paper towel before you go pulling ceilings down

Cant go into too much detail as most things to check are in the combustion chamber. The fault finding process has been described pretty much as i would have hone through it. I suspect the fault may lie in the original fitting of the fan but hard to be sure. May be time to cut your losses and fit...

Is the boiler pressurised? If so is it looseing any pressure.

In most cases its easier and more cost effective to run the hot water in conjunction with the radiators providing its on for at least a couple of hours a day it should be fine for your hot water needs.

In a perfect world you would have radiators on wall 1 and 2 of the extension. Of even size. Sometimes you just have compromise with practicality I have a somewhat similar set up at home with an orangerie/conservatory coming off a kitchen diner. Their was only enough room for 1 low radiator...

I would think the head would be interchangable espcially the same make bur not 100% sure there is kind of an industry standard but not all adhere to it. Buy the full valve and try the head if it doesnt by any chance fit you could always change the full valve is its within your skill set either...

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Siemens-Trade-TRV-Thermostatic-Radiator-Valve/p/507995 Is this the one?

Is the the screed already down if not have you considered underfloor heating?

Is all the house done in plastic or just the odd bit? If its the latter chances are just under the floor it will be copper better to remove and start again with your pipe of your choice. Most plastic fittings are interchangable but people have had problems with the inserts matching up.

Most radiator brackets have a wide and narrow side for fitting which. Fitted on the narrow side it may give you enough room to change without too much pipe manipulation.

Wouldnt bother with a pump any water would not be under pressure and minimal is it bothers you pur bucket under rad valves and blow down pipe where you cut it should get rid of most water left in pipes. A Magnaclean is a good idea and would save draining again if you did it at the same time...

Should be an easy job but only for a rgi.

Looks like a gas isolation tap. Probably from a previous gas fire.

Their is a ballofix at the end of the pipe turn 90 degrees with a flat bladed screwdriver.

If youre lucky you will have something like a ballofix valve on the pipe to your toilet. Failing that you could try fitting one or tying up the ballcock assuming it has one.

Just undo wires at the pump head and wire like for like there is only l n e youre overcomplicating it.

If it were to be a heating leak chances are it would show signs in the room directly below where the leak was long before it would manifest outside. Feel around the radiator for any signs of water especially the valves. Maybe pull a floorboard up and have a feel aroung underneath their may well...