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Ours is still off, fortunately mobiles are on o2 so working ok

Pictures of the shoe rack you want would help

You may be right about replacing the damaged treads, I'll know more when I start undoing some of the fixings and see what moves/doesn't move once my new blocks and brackets have arrived, I've it pencilled in for Friday if everything arrives.

It will all be done in one go, I just needed to space out each job above so it read ok instead of being a big block of text

So I got home early today and decided to have a look at the job. Decided to both cut the plasterboard out under the stairs and remove all the carpet/underlay from the top to so I can get a full picture of what's going on. From the top I've gaps between the treads and risers and some...

Any sparks can be dealt with by putting an old sheet or curtain in the bath and then use masking tape or similar in several layers around the area your cutting, the sparks loose their heat in seconds or less so it's not really a big worry, using a grinder for a 'delicate' job for your first is a...

A dremel or other brand rotary tool with a cutting disc would be my choice for that. If you remove the bath side panel how much room is there between the floor and bath base? If you can get an arm under then using some ingenuity and socket extensions you can probably get a tool up there to...

Evening all, Our 1970 staircase creaks badly and the wife's got the hump over it. I've seen YouTube videos similar to the below, They all show what can be done from above. I've no issue cutting the plasterboard out below the staircase as the whole hallway will be getting redone, so am I...

Read what I wrote again, the section with the pipe the ptfe will go round the olive but there looks like there is a second reducer section screwed into the valve body which appears to be the source of the leak, that won't have an olive and will require ptfe on the threads that screw into the...

That looks like if you remove the larger compression nut and pipe the section remaining with the smaller hex section can be undone and removed, if so it's probably leaking along those threads and some ptfe on there should cure it.

You can see there how I'd lined the inside with the mdf and the angle trim was mitred like architrave around the plasterboard. The trim painted fine with 2 coats of emulsion, didn't need any prep, the mdf was primed before paint.

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/what-type-of-hinges-do-i-need.645987/#post-6018842 That's the thread I made when doing the original cupboard door and needed to ask about hinges.

I've done 2 doors similar to what your proposing as above. I trimmed the cut edges of the plasterboard with 20mm pvc angle trim. https://www.diy.com/departments/cqfd-white-polyvinyl-chloride-pvc-equal-l-shaped-angle-profile-l-2-5m-w-50mm-d-50mm-t-1-4mm/3232637807104_BQ.prd I then just painted...

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/notching-joists-will-thye-need-sistering.647473/#post-6043115 Look at my similar thread and how I fixed it. Do as I did and it should be fine.

To manually activate just the pump you'd need to supply 12v and an earth to it, I'm guessing you took the 12v from the cigarette lighter and probably didn't fit an earth. To test your ecu get yourself a test light or 12v led, connect it to the 2 pin connector, make sure the fuel pump relay is...

Using a multimeter or test bulb check for power at the fuel pump connector with the relay bridged. If you've power and a decent earth at the connector then the pumps probably failed.

I wouldn't worry about the tape and compound, if the boards a good fit just some normal filler in and over the joints then carefully rubbed back will be fine

That video there shows what I mean from about 3.30 onwards

Not really, without supporting the edges from behind the area will always be weak and it'll be difficult to get the board back in flush. What I suggested above sounds more complicated written down than it is to do, it'll take 15-20 minutes to do

How big are the holes? Cut some strips of plasterboard about 75mm wide and long enough to over lap the side of the hole, apply something like no more nails to them, slide them through the hole and position them so one half of the 75mm is glued to the back of the existing board and the other half...