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Looks like a skim problem, probably due to lack of suction control. Did a plasterer do it?

Mid span support via RSJ or box lintel or steel plates bolted to the side of the joists. No other option I can think of off the top of my head.

Why does the ceiling have to be dropped? As long as you're fixing to the joists not the laths then I don't see a problem. If you're struggling for space a steel stud ceiling would be far better than timber.

Cavity roll? Does that even exist? Blown CWI is your best bet. For the bay window, depending on your wall tie spacings you could try cutting some PIR board to fit from above. The chances of alternate courses of ties being perfectly plumb are slim to none though so would probably end up being a...

Sounds horrendous. Putting anything other than wet concrete mix into a foundation is a no go. Not rocket science. Why is he mixing on site? Where the foundations meet there will now be a weak spot which will have to be strengthened with rebar/resin. Very poor practice.

Yes, always stagger boards.

Hack it all off and dab boards. Looks like you won't have to put in too much effort to fetch it off. On another note, there's nowhere near enough fixings in those ceiling boards. They'll sag in no time. Fix every 6 inch along every joist.

Are your walls solid or cavity? First or ground floor? Could it possibly be rotting timber? Reason I say that is on the last picture the black mark on the right looks suspiciously like 'feelers' a rot would 'send out'. Is there anyway it could be getting wet underfloor if it is a first floor?

I'd say 150mm. Solid enough that it wont move over time. Are you mixing on site? My advice would be definately don't mix by hand. After a couple of barrow fulls you'll be nackered. Either use a mixer (still a maul) or even better get it delivered. Some companies will deliver as low as 1/4 cube.

If in doubt, definitely overboard. For a reskim, I'd use either blue grit or wba for it's key. If you're worried about the radius corner, get a plasterer in.

Might as well just build the lot in engineering bricks rather than having to change part way. Personally I'd cart off your asphalt rather than mixing it in with the type 1. It's designed so that it 'locks' together to form a solid base with a good blend of fines and larger pieces. Getting your...

Sure someone with more knowledge than me will come along, but I imagine you could with double trimmers put in.

Not a decorator, but I use the DW088K all the time. Great piece of kit.

Probably snuggled up all warm and cosy next to the heaters.

The electrician should be providing you with an agreement for when payment is due. What you've stated is fair though. I'd never do a job for full payment on completion.

Agreed that not glued they can make hell of a noise. Plywood laid in your method with gaps won't, my main worry would be caulk debonding and dropping out.

Pic 1 is your on peak board. Circuits marked storage heaters on this is the convectors in your heaters. Pic 2 is your off peak board. Push all switches up. Pic 3 is your switch fuses. Guessing the one on the left feeds your off peak board. Push that up also. There will be double pole switches...

If all of them aren't working then it's more than likely a supply problem at your CU. Are all your 'trip switches' in the on position?

These get qualified quick courses are a massive con. Don't believe what they tell you. There's no way you could ever learn enough in 18 days to go out sparking. For starters a company wouldn't touch you. My advice is if you're sure you want to follow that career path, try to get a job as a mate...

Surely that depends on the strength of the mortar compared to the brick? I've known blokes shovel gauging mixes aiming for a 4 and 1 but comes out looking more like a 3 and 1.