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I doubt it.

Let’s see if anyone else comments on that. I don’t believe it’s common to fit non-return valves in dishwasher or washing machine supplies. Yes; you can just chop a short bit out of the pipe and insert the tee.

(What do you mean by “check valve”? If you mean non-return valve, why do you think you need one?) Simplest option: https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-plastic-push-fit-adapting-appliance-tap-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-3-4-/27471 Next simplest...

I got a quote for “EICR followed by new CU if satisfactory”, discussed in some detail with the electrician. The day came; he didn’t come himself but send a “lad”. The lad immediately popped out the cutout fuse and removed the old CU from the wall, with no testing. Moral of the story: they’ll...

LED bulbs do tend to start flickering when they are about to fail. It may seem unlikely that several are failing at the same time, but coincidences do happen. Did the "electrician" not suggest that it could simply be the bulbs failing?

What sort of bulbs are they? Have you tried replacing them?

Terminology note: "tails" are the things that join the valve to the radiator, and they are always metal. I'm not aware of any reason why you shouldn't use plastic pipe into the radiator valves.

The humidity inside the wall will be lower than in the bathroom - at least it should be! - so the danger of condensation onto the cold pipe is lower. Insulating the pipe would still be good practice.

No. Yes. Report it to Amazon as "dangerous, illegal to sell in the UK".

Single-and-earth wires are available. They aren't often used. My guess is that it is supplying a permanent live to something else that we don't know about. There are other possibilities. If you disconnect it, you may discover what no longer works. You haven't wired it exactly as before.

I’ve read most of your threads and I don’t think we know the “big picture”. Do you want to share? Yes it’s quite possible that you need planning permission.

Plugs and nails?! No. Plugs and long screws. Or possibly hammer-fixings, as above. Yes. What is the width of the alcove? Have you discovered the “sagulator”?

Hmm - do you have to constantly clean it? The ones I’ve seen in homes have been very grotty looking, but I guess that was in a hard water area, which I am not.

You could also consider hiring trackway panels. I’ve no idea about the relative cost, but it’s worth checking out if it is only needed temporarily.

There's not much point having two RCDs; either one or the other (or both?) could trip. Don't imagine that the more-downstream RCD will always trip first.

On the subject of kettles - can anyone recommend a cheap left-handed one? I'd better explain. When we were all young, kettles were ambidextrous. Then they started putting water level gauges on them, most often on the side where you can see it while holding it in your right hand under the tap...

That's fine. The red wire in the 2&E from the light is the permanent live, which goes through the various switches and the eventual switched live is the red wire coming back from downstairs. That's then connected to the black wire going to the light, which is the light's switched live. It...

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You’re the one who did the course!

How old is it? If you just bought it, it’s not asbestos.