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:D Bit of 42 copper + 2 x 42-22 reducers. Job done.

:oops: Yes missed the bit about the neon gadget.

:( Has anyone thought about testing the motorized valve if S or Y plan. Yeh! ok, the boiler would probably fire up for HW (it is late and I've had a few :lol:

You are not very likely to encounter any problem connecting directly on to the compression fitting. Do not use any PTFE tape on the threads. This will do no good at all.

You have worked on gas heaters and only have boilers and water heaters!! Want to work on cookers but don't have cooker ticket!! Mix tape and paste (so you don't regs)!! Go back to school or take extra week on your two week corse. Stick to boilers!!!!!!!!!!!

Check that your valve is a 3 port mid position valve. It may well be a 3 port diverter valve with hot water priority. In which case the heating will not come on until the hot water is satisfied. If it is a Honeywell valve what is the model number printed on the end?

Tap revivers are what you need. Available from Screwfix and most plumbing outlets, sheds etc.

Cut the valve in on the leg that goes to the bedroom and wire up the brown and blue only to a time switch or programmable room stat. New zone will only heat when port A open on three port and boiler firing. Hot water would not be affected.

No need to turn off main stopcock with a combi boiler to work on hot water. Turn off the cold feed at the boiler. Drain pipework from lowest tap/drain off.

Don't mess about trying to dig the old stuffing out. A piece of PTFE 2" or so long. Roll it along its length to make a string and wind it loosely around the spindle and push it down. Slide the packing nut back on and tighten gently. The same goes if using Loctite 55 or similar.

A central heating pump is not a pump but is a circulator. It will not pump up five feet. There are plenty of garden/pond pumps on the market that will do the job that you require. (I suspect that you have a spare CH circulator knocking about that you would like to use to save cash) :wink:

Have had this problem on a number of occasions. Trim off the top couple of mm of the nut. A wide blade saw is best and clean edges with a trimming knife.

Take it out again and remove ptfe tape. Not needed. Put nothing on the gasket. Nothing needed. Make sure surfaces are clean and smooth. Tighten up and test. Extra tweek up if weepy.

I'm 66 and forgot about BTUs years ago :lol:

Bypass rad :?: :?: No such thing :!: What are you talking about :?:

If your immersion just keeps on boiling up when switched on then you should not be trying to control it with a timer. The thermostat is obviously knackered and should be replaced with some urgency. Call a plumber or electrician to get it fixed before there is a dangerous incident. :!:

First find out where the leak is coming from.

I sense a wind up here. The user name is another clue :wink:

So would the next steps be: - disconnect white waste pipe by scraping out the solvent weld (is there a certain tool for that?) and then pulling it to remove it from the boss strap - then look for/clear any blockage in the stack at that join point - then put a new horizontal white pipe into...