Search results

The big and small white bits form the trap. Mastic/sealant is not required.

Do as yourmoneyoryourwife posted. You do not need to turn off supply. As you will be using gas PTFE take a piece about 2" long and split down the middle and use only one piece. Don't forget, the tape goes around the spindle not the thread.

Is the pipe plastic or copper? The boiler model would be helpful.

Just face up to it fella, stiffen up the upperlip. You're gonna die :cry: :cry:

:shock: Just close the manual valve then 8)

No need to drain down to service the rad plug. Turn off the TRV and the lockshield valve on the opposite end. Carefully open the vent whilst hold some rag or towel under it to relieve pressure and test that valves are not letting by. If all is well then only a small trickle will...

It looks to me that the rad valve tail joint is not leaking. Check the plug or vent plug at the top of the rad immediatley above the valve. This may be leaking past a fibre washer and dripping on to the valve making look like rad valve leak. The red gunk could be the...

Have a look around outside the house, sometimes the drain off has been taken directly outside. If no drain off then remove a radiator and drain directly from the rad valve. When empty you can fit a drain cock for use in the future

3 shillings and 9 pence (3/9d) when I were a lad :lol: :lol:

:?: :?: Essex flange =cylinder/water SE duct = common flue. Perhaps too much red :wink: . What am I missing :?:

Yes. Remove the link A to L. The only link there should be is L to L. Wire it in accordance with diagram B.

I suspect you have wired as per diagram A on your instruction sheet. This would give a permanant live output. Wire up as per diagram B. Red to A. Yellow to B. This will now use the boiler live to switch on and off.

If the manufacture stipulates cement and or sand then there is no alterntive. Anything different and something breaks/goes wrong they don't (quite rightly imo) want to know.

The other one is most likely to be the cold water down service. Just turn it off and see if the bath tap stops running. :wink:

:wink: Pat on the back for you. Spot on :P :P

Are you refering to the models with the test point in the top of the casing rather than in the flue elbow? If the former is the case then I just connect using the tube from my water gauge (manometer) to join up to. Never failed me yet.

This must be new regulations. Please point me in the right direction so that I may catch up!

Those really are 22mm each end. They fit onto 22mm copper pipe, they are not female threads.

NO! See Boilerman 2 No 1. Can quite often get good gravity flow from tank but no good under pump pressure. See Boilerman 2 No 4. Drive coupling could be slipping.

:mrgreen: Wow! You certainly know your stuff. I would certainly not invite those cowboys to check out my boiler. Please leave your contact details so that I can get a decent fix when my heating goes down :lol: