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Make a hole in the inner leaf of the cavity below the meter box, feed your power cable through that and then bring it up through one of the holes in the bottom, connect your Shelley. This really is risky though, because there are at least three cables in that cavity which you don't want to hit...

Start by jet washing it and then live with it for a bit. Rendering shouldn't bridge the DPC :(

Followup....last few times I have run it, the pan has been dry. Can't really explain this one. Nothing like this ever "fixes itself"! I was emptying it after every run previously. At least I can put the kick panels back on now.

What happens to the tails indoors? Straight in to the fuse box? I would put it in there but you probably don't have an isolator so it's not a risk I would take, as an amateur.

My guess is that something catches the rear right corner, but the drawer passes it.

Don't be. Cars are reinforced and kept rigid with glue structural adhesives nowadays and they undergo way more stress that corner piece ever will.

They were driven in to hold the joint while the glue sets. As you can see, the profile of the tongue here is probably too small to support the load [unless you've abused it!]. Even if it was big enough, you would struggle to glue this back together. I would put a couple of large screws into...

Magnusson 5m double-sided tape is only about a fiver from B&Q. Only problem I've had is that the magnets are a bit loose and need pressing back in occasionally.

Two opposing requirements - it can't be substantial enough to screen something and also not really be visually imposing! You could soften the appearance of the wall by growing something up or down it.

That's not quite what I was getting at. You've got a small "hole", apart from that, the wood inside is completely surrounded. You don't want to be adding any more moisture than strictly necessary. Sure - get some F-clamps, you can exert some *serious* pressure with 3x big F-clamps and a couple...

Right, but from the pictures, I would say it's the top not the front that's come away.

Clamping is worth a try, won't cost you anything but your time. Not sure about adding more moisture though, how will it get out again? How will you know when it's dried inside?

You can't "just" do that though, can you? I am guessing there is something either side of it, so you'd need to leave some of the structure intact to provide support to your neighbours. You could widen out the steps into a stepped seating area. You could leave the patio as-is and build some...

Is it laminated chipboard? Basically unrepairable.

Can you feel it blowing, sucking or doing nothing on the side that doesn't work? How does that compare to the working side? Never opened one of these up before but I guess there's one motor, one shaft and a fan on each end of it. If it's noticeably not working on one side then either the fan is...

I think they look nice as they decay over winter. The softer parts rot away leaving something like lacework. Tastes vary, of course.

They probably mean to look under the decking for evidence of rats. If you have an illuminated CCTV camera with good night vision, the rats will be most obvious as two little bright dots moving around.

That would be quite the miracle, wouldn't it? 1600W consumed, the label says 900W. I assume it's at 100% power. The only button that works is the "Start" button, so all I can get is the defaults, in 30s increments!

That will be the RF power into the food, I reckon [unless it really is tiny]. My "900W" microwave uses 0.9W idle, 1.5W with the door open [the bulb is broken] and 1600W in use. So uses as much at idle in a day as about a minute's worth of use.

Can you pull up one of the decking planks and see what is going on underneath? Rat runs have a characteristic look to them, they smooth the soil and remove the vegetation [or their incontinence kills it, not sure] as they move about. https://www.pestend.co.uk/2022/03/18/following-a-rat-run/