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I have a black composite door that is east-facing, so full sun for quite a few hours in summer, and have never had a problem with it being difficult to open/close. Yes, it's a little bit tighter. But definitely not difficult.

As a person sat here on the internet who isn't the one having to do all the work, let me say....do it properly, or you'll be kicking yourself for years to come [possibly every time you look at it]. If it was me faced with the work, I'd be looking in to every bodge going!

Search ebay for 'water butt tap' and you will find sets with all the parts you need.

So long as your guttering is stopping water running off the roof from either hitting the walls directly or splashing back up, then you have solved most of the problem. If you don't actually want to collect the water, leave a hose pipe attached with the tap open and let it soak away somewhere...

31 ****ing posts on the fitting of a plug. Sheesh.

Use a long-handled spade to lift them in to a bucket. Tip bucket into green bin. You only need to do the job once, you will have time to collect any subsequent falling fruit before it rots and attracts pests.

It's not going to be "easy", because it's hard physical labour [from your description]. If you can't afford to hire a mini digger, you could hire a breaker. Small electric breakers start in the low hundreds new, obviously cheaper used on eBay. If you can't afford a labour-saving tool then you...

Given the permeability of concrete, I doubt that removing is going to cause a damp issue. Make sure whatever replaces it isn't higher than the DPC.

I reckon that if you lay sheets of DPM under your summerhouse, it will certainly reduce the amount of moisture getting to the deck, but any moisture that does get there is going to pool on it, so your summerhouse will be sat in a puddle. Can you stop rain getting on the DPM?

What kind of issues were you envisaging? It's not supporting anything but that shed. I don't see any manhole covers. The only issue I can think of is that it's going to be a lot of waste concrete to get rid of! Looks like quite a damp climate, so take drainage into account in your new design -...

I am using LocalBytes wifi smart plugs. They ship with a choice of firmware and do energy monitoring but you have to calibrate them yourself - not exactly straightforward. They work with Home Assistant and probably other platforms as well.

If they're aware of the issue then they should update the specs on their website!

This one:

Read the product spec more carefully. "Each fitting comes with angled cable glands and fast-fix terminal block, allowing for quick installation.".

I can't see how it wouldn't help. It means that one face on each sleeper, that would normally be in contact with the ground, won't be.

That crossed my mind too but the style seems a bit different.

How about, scrape out the rot as planned but just "veneer" it with some treated boards. Less fiddly and quicker. You will be able to reuse the boards elsewhere as this is only a temporary bodge.

They did mine [fibre] in the loft no bother. I can imagine some jobsworth could come up with a reason why not to, but my loft is boarded and has a sensible folding ladder for access.

Multi-hundred-kilowatt valves are not going to be a COTS item. Dream on. A bit of Googling suggests they were made by English Electric Valves, which became Teledyne E2V Thales...

It's not mandatory to charge at Granny's when visiting.