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oil based undercoat should do the trick it will act as a sealer..2 even better

you could do both.....dont think you will get a good finish just filling and sanding without the lining paper thats the way i would go...maybe someone else can help....!

if you cant rub it out its quiet possible that it could have been a nail or some sort of metal in the timber when it was alive or a possible deseas in the wood

why dont you lining paper it....time and money filling and sanding

saves cleaning the toilet :twisted:

try turning of the other valves leaving the dogy one open ,if it still posists cheq the valves on it. ps what do i know im a decky

just use a descent adhesive .. if youre retiling the bath remember to fill it ful of water first

make sure u have a strait plumb line to start with or every drop will b out

looks nice claire as mentionde waterbased stain(dye) then clear varnish gives u a much better finish

to stop the adhesive from drying to quickly i wipe the new plaster wiyh a wet sponge seems to give you alot more working time//////

hi 400 grit is a bit fine use 240 on the existing gloss work it will give u a better key 4 the undercoat to adhere to,then use a 320 before re-glossing......

use a foam radiator roller and dont try to cover in 1 coat,rub down between coats .. 1 primer, 2 undercoats and then a top coat of gloss or betterstill satinwood. the grill is a pain to coat but spraying is the best way..

what about fixing ply to it then mesh, the other point use a drip bead

what about tiling behind it

why dont u just get em sprayed up

Hi gille a good idea is to put a mistcoat of vinyl silk to make the paper slide easier but not to thicku still need the paste to adhere to the wall.

TRY DAMP SPONGE OR STEAM IT THEN SCAPE IT OFF

flat roof to patch whats the ratio of hardener to resin .

i would just use some 60mm drywall screws no piloting just drive strait in

cheers rob (that was quick) ill give it a try :wink: