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You know what i mean. You wouldnt fit a 30k btu boiler if you needed 6Ok. But a (eg) 50k one would be fine. The house reaches temp and the rads will stay on for longer periods but at lower temp (cos its under rated) WC works in a similar way

Sounds about right. So when the working pressure reaches 2bar the accumulator will then cut in. Same prob with noise as the CWS idea then tho. As said earlier, i cant remember weather or not the accumulators need a MIN of 2bar working pressure or standing pressure. If its standing pressure...

Id say P.C.B for sure. Check the contacts on the APS first tho, just to make sure there no sticking in the N/C / N/O position. Also check fan lead continuity, HTH Gareth

Depends what the pipework is that is supplying the rad? Is the pipework copper or plastic? If it plastic then you will be able to lower the radiator onto the box just enough to re-fix the brackets. I would advise using collapsable plasterboard fixings (if its plasterboard that is) or brown...

does the fan run at all tho? is there power to it?

fitted a fair few of the platinum.. Very good tbh... Would say to goto the VIESSMANN 200 tho. About to rip out my 100HE and fit one in my own home. Baxi horror stories were from the Suprima which was sorted out. Still better than Worcester in my eyes. HTH Gareth :)

Wrong there to a point mate. If the rads are si ed right then he would be better under si ing the boiler slightly.. General rule of thumb, undersi e boiler or over si e rads. More likely to go into condense mode that way.

They usually have little stickers on them with red/hot and blue/cold. Do you have the instuctions. As you look at the valve from behind, its hot on the right cold on the left usually. Id just try swapping the hoses over

[/url] I was assuming he had somewhere to put it. Even if its out the way or bo ed in in the loft, insulated and sound proofed. There accumulators mate. Was talked about earlier in the topic. I assume it uses the pump to boost the working pressure to 2bar so the accumualtor then works...

True 10mm will sludge up quicker in a dirty system but you arn't going to have a dirty system are you. Give it a power flush and keep the inhibitors topped up mate. We have no problems as said in our new build installations. It COSTS ME more to fit in plastic than copper so it certainly...

Aghhh right

LOL were only human

Fantastic matey... Must have just been an airlock

You can still xone the area/s individually if you like, you just cant send a boiler enable feature back to the boiler. The thing with oning ( the letter next to x DONT WORK) each room/s individually with a programmable timer is that they are alot more accurate than TRVS. trust me. It works...

quicker, neater, easier, no pipes on show, no circulation issues in my camp!!!! CHEERS

My own opinion is that it will do no harm to your kids if there given a tap on the arse or the back of the legs, as long as you explain WHAT its for and WHY it was WRONG what they did

Best advice ive heard all day

sorry, i didnt click the link. can you pul it out and get to the flexible pipes at the back at all>

Yep sounds like H & C wrong way round. Turn shower on and feel the valve (if its a bar mixer that is) the left nut should feel warm/hot and the right nut should feel cold. HPH

It sound to me like it either wants balancing, the 10mm runs are too long or the 10mm is partially blocked. Easy way to start is turn the return valne clockwise until it stops then count how many turns until it is fully open. Turn each return valve then back half as many turns so it is...