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It does seem petty and wasteful but I believe it's a liability issue and it's easier for the company not to get involved. However, the same company may well turn a blind eye if the stuff gets "stolen".

You just need some iron-on edging - easily available at any DIY shop. You can get thicker plastic edging from the same places which you could glue on but it might look a bit chunky.

I cut the nozzle at 45 degrees, the size dependant on the gap I'm trying to fill. Then with the longer side of the nozzle away from the surface push the tube away from you at a rate that keeps up with the silicon coming out. The shorter side of the nozzle then helps form the final profile...

I have an impact driver like the one you bought. It was an esential tool when working on earlier Japanese motorbikes where the engine covers were held on with cross-head screws made of cheese. As has been said, it might not work on your application if it isn't solid enough to take the impact...

I would start with the sides. A piece of paper will follow the curve so long as you don't try taking it around the corner onto the face. Paste a piece of the anaglypta to the side wall so that it is slightly wider and sticks out at the front edge. Then cut the paper so that it's maybe half an...

You could try Googling "cupboard latch" or "cabinet latch" and see if anything there matches what you want.

:? :? eg. http://www.topclasscarpentry.com/product/3403/

Do you not have any laminate suppliers near you? I had a table made up, attached to the wall at one end and on a leg at the other. It has a rolled edge on both sides and a bow-end. The laminate suppliers did it all and there are no joins. 24 :oops: years later and it still looks good. It was...

If it's a big plastic nut then you might get away with a strap wrench with a rubber strap. If it's metal then have a look at stilsons (also works with the plastic nut but you'll need to wrap some rag round it first to avoid scoring it.

I know it's quite small but have you considered a two-tier garden? You can put your panel fence across the bottom. I believe the height limit is 2 metres (but it might be 6 foot so best google it). You could then build a retaining wall parallel to the fence at whatever distance you want from it...

I use them (4"x4") to support a 6 foot panel with trellis on top (8 foot posts) and they work just fine. It's on top of a concrete retaining wall so had to use bolt-downs. I would recommend you use the galvanised (silver) ones rather than the red/brown coloured ones as I did have a problem of...

Mine are stuck on with Solvite but the foils are wide enough to enable the hanging brackets to be screwed through them so they can't fall off.

How about a piece of plastic soilpipe? (Downpipe might be a bit weak).

I find the most useful thing is the box! The assortment of screwdriver bits are useful for those once-in-a-while type of fastenings. The bits you use more often can be replaced with a quality alternative as can the drill bits as soon as they're worn (quite quickly in some cases!).

I just bought the Flymo 600HD from Argos (and other places) £65 http://www.argos.co.uk/ProductDisplayTRK019?partNumber=7304493 I did a lot of searching of online reviews for various makes and models and this one seemed to have the least number of bad reviews! The one time I've used it it...

It would only work if the lid and the pipe going into it were totally sealed otherwise it would just pour out. And you might want some form of strainer in the gutter to stop leaves, grit, etc. going down there.

I cut loads of block paving bricks with a 9" angle grinder and a diamond stone-cutting disk when I built my patio. Went through very easily.

I had one of these taps for a while. Although mine was designed for gravity-fed hot it did restrict the flow maybe by about 50% compared to a normal tap. I'm a bit surprised that the cold is forcing the hot back up the pipe. I thought kitchen mixer taps, especially on mains cold/gravity hot...

Do you need to keep the 2 old boards? If not, then I would be tempted to saw the middle out of them (2 sawcuts parallel to the tongue and groove but maybe a couple of inches in). You could then lift out this middle piece and you might then find the remaining bits will pull out. If not you could...

When you wriggle the blue pipe in the loft, is there any sign of movement through the drill hole? Could there have been a wall-mounted shower at that point in the past? You might have hit the edge of a brass connector. Of course, the other thing made of copper within a wall is the electrics...