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How about using IKEA's suggested tool. It costs a tenner. http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/28512100/

Strangely enough there is ( I used to subscribe when I had one :oops: ) and it's actually quite good! www.cub90.co.uk

I was just reading this article about a collapsed wall... http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-stoke-staffordshire-17607605 ... and I thought the construction looked a bit strange. Is it just a double brick wall with a cavity? I assume the chimney stacks spanned the walls. And what's that...

Is there any way you could put in a downpipe from your gutter, down far enough to fit the diverter (same level as the final water level in the butt) and then take it around the corner and connect to the downpipe lower down?

If it's of any use to you, I used B&Q Value 1000 grade lining paper, pasted each piece, left it to soak for about 10 minutes and hung it (on pre-sized walls). Once dried I emulsioned it. You'd be hard pushed to find the joins unless you looked really closely and the finish looks good.

Geoff Hamilton on Gardeners World many years ago famously made some artificial rocks. The basic recipe was two parts (by volume) composted bark or coir to one part sharp sand to one part cement mixed with water to a porridge-like consistency. To make rocks he dug an irregular shaped hole, lined...

A cold chisel. These often have a hexagonal shaft as well so you can get a spanner onto it.

I don't know the ins and outs but assuming the frame isn't also acting as a lintel, would it be feasable to have a thicker piece of timber for the hinge side and thinner piece for the top and the catch side?

What happens is when it rains the soil underneath turns to mud and comes up through the joints when you walk on the slabs. This then leaves a hollow under the slab which means it wobbles more and squirts more mud up through the joint. When it dries the slab will be loose and will not be level...

Brushed stainless steel is more "muted" and might blend in better. :?:

What are the side walls and back wall made of? If appropriate, you could build a timber framework out of 75x25 fixed to the sides and back, with intermediate cross-pieces and then a ply floor on that.

If it is a Fortic then I don't think you should add any inhibitor. But an expert will confirm/deny that.

I can't picture what you're talking about but the cold water tank feeding the hot water tank and the feed and expansion tank for the central heating will be two separate entities otherwise you'd get the Sentinel chemicals getting into your water supply. Best you have a look in the loft and...

Has the lock got a little slider which then locks the knob? Maybe try wriggling this. Or does it have one of those catches in two parts designed to stop someone opening it with a thin blade. You could try tapping against the catch to see if it jogs something.

Oh, and before you go much further, your original premise is wrong. If you close both valves and then open the drain tap it will drain from the pipework and not the radiator. If you want to drain the radiator you will need to close both valves then loosen the joint between the valve and the...

What do you have at the other end of the radiator? If it's just a normal knob and not a Thermostatic Radiator Valve then you can just pull that one off and use it to turn the lockshield end. Otherwise it's spanner time.

What is the current situation? Is the screening currently installed? Is it fixed to a fence/trellis? Can it be removed? If it is loose you could roll it up and then saw it with a normal panel saw. If it's fitted I would use a circular saw or maybe a jigsaw, depending on how much control I could...

I assume you're talking about something like this... http://www.screwfix.com/p/angled-radiator-valve-drain-off-15mm-x/70408 If you undo the "small square bolt" then water will drain from the hose connector underneath it. Use a spanner to loosen it. The "flat tab sticking up vertically...

Are you sure you have the wires the right way round. It would be more logical for the blue with brown sleeve to be on the wire from the switch. But the basic concept would be... The brown wire from the bedroom light connects to the brown wire from the switch but not into the light connector...

Is it the water that smells or the sink? Do any other hot taps smell the same? Try filling a container with hot water and take it away from the sink to smell it. Does the sink smell if you run the cold tap or don't run either tap? What if you tip some hot water down the sink but not turning the...