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So, is it acceptable to add my 0.12 ohms to each of the R1+R2 I measured to get the implicit Zs for each circuit? Also, what the hell is the point of the Megger offering a no Trip Zs if it doesn't work?

I measured my Ze by disconnecting earth and testing between Earth and Live at the CU = 0.12 ohms. I previously have done all the R1+R2, and in particular have a reading of 0.18 ohms on a short radial, and 0.21 ohms on the ring. These tie up with what I should expect to see when comparing the...

Thanks. I have >299Mohms for each "leg" without the neon FCU's, but when I include them (had to give it a go), I get 29Mohms for the for each of the circuits concerned, and for the installation as a whole, just under 9Mohms. I guess that >299Mohms should be recorded even though the other...

Thanks 17thman - I was quoting R1 and R2 loosely - from my post, that was the reading of the L2-N1 reading from cross connect of L1-N2 at the board, so R1+R2 should be 1/4 of 0.85 ohms, so when I do the external loop I hope that it won't be "sqeeky bum time". Regarding the Zs - I plan to...

I have neon indicators in four circuits, 13A FCU, 3A FCU, Cooker, Shower circuits. 1. Should the tests be done with these switches closed, or is there a chance of damaging the neon lights? 2. If they should be excluded because they are "sensitive" equipment, are the tests done ... 2a...

Ok thanks - we have two alarms also, and the AST states that the tenant needs to check alarm every month anyway.

I have a flat that I let out. Is it a legal requirement to have a "wired" smoke alarm in the flat - up to now, it has been battery only operated. The flat itself is in a building where the freeholder maintains the smoke alarms for the stairwell, which is wired.

Hi Riveralt - R1+R2 was 0.85 ohms as stated, now I'm moving on by cross connecting L1/N2 and L2/N1 at the CU, which is about 0.21, a quarter of the 0.85 I was getting! HOWEVER, the pertinent "discussion" we had before though was when you said "BTW new switches are sometimes sticky and a few...

Now I'm getting a bit hacked off - Continuity on the circuits, and finnaly started to attck the ring. Cross connect CPC and neutral at the CU and took a reading of 0.85 ohms. Checking for bridges, so cross connect both phase and neutral at CU, and go round the sockets, 0.21, 0.24, 1.74, 0.22...

Tested the resistance across the Com-L1, and Com-L2 on both switches today. First switch has negligible resistance (0.02 ohms) when closed, while the other switch has 0.78 ohms. It didn't even occur to me that I would be in possession of a brand new dodgy switch fresh out of its wrapper...

I don't think it's haphazard at all. As I have said I am not "testing" anything yet - I am just connecting the switches, ceiling roses, and junction boxes - I have connected the L and N at the CU so that I can ensure the L/N runs to the next light and that the switch switches L. It doesn't...

OK - will test each one in the morning to see if they are similar. If it's the switches, would you think that an acceptable level of resistance?

The 3 Core is 5 metres (as per point 6 in my original post), and 1mm for the new cabling. I am not doing testing at the moment that's why I am not quotiong any R1 R2 figures - I only gave the resistance figures because of the glaring problem, which is thus. 1. With a one way switch...

As I see it, if I get 0.62 ohms without the two way switching at Light 1 (i.e. by using a standard switch), and 0.22 ohms down the 3 Core, when I wire up the two way switching I should see about 0.84 ohms but it's over 2 ohms (uuuhhggg).

1. Yes - (hence the four resistance readings (at point 4 above) - two each at the two lights) I feed off one of the earlier lights (i.e nearer the CU) and do this. Feed into JB - Out to : T&E to light 1, T&E to light 2, T&E to switch At Switch 1 - T&E coming in, and 3 Core going out to...

Just wiring up a lighting circuit (line and neutral connected at board) and everything was going well with my continuity tester - hearing the beeps and moving on ... but I wanted to ask a question, because something looks suspect when I started testing my two way light switch. Here's the set...

Wiring up an in-line fan - three core and earth comes in - connectors for L, SL, and N coming in but not the earth - What shoudl I do, leave earth coming in, sheath it, and just bend it back inside?

Ring, Lighting, etc. What's best practive - to bend the end of the conductors before screwing them in or leaving them single before screwing them in?

Just doing a flat renovation and have three bedrooms, a lounge and a hall to carpet. I have on order some berber style carpet (non foam back) with some 7mm underlay. I have laid the carpeer gripper round the edge (about 8mm distance from skirt) and and put down the carpet to carpet edging in...

I have a 1G socket on a ring. I don't want the socket there anymore, but don't want to do any wiring. Is there such a thing (like a socket from behind, so I can connect the two legs of the ring) that looks like a blank plate from the front? Tried looking on Toolsation but cannot see...