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Paint scraper, coarse scotchbrite pad, wire brush. All should help get into those awkward areas. Ian

Why not do it yourself? How old is the dresser? If it's over 70 years old it's more likely to have been finished with a shellac polish. If this is the case you'll be able to scrape it off with a cabinet scraper and apply a new finish. If it's more recent than that then using a stripper such as...

Hi Emma, Definitely take it back to the bare wood if you have an uneven finish at the moment. I see no reason why you couldn't use an electric sander. It's probably best to start by using something quite coarse such as P60 then work your way up the grades before finishing with P240 . 3-4...

Hi Kris, You're best staining it first (apply by brush and then remove excess using an absorbent piece of towelling, this will give you an even finish) then you want to seal it using three coats of polyurethane varnish which you can get from a number of sources such as Smith & Rodger or...

In that case you want to go for a microporous exterior finish that will allow the wood to expand and contract in different climates - it is a non cracking/flaking product. The darker the shade of brown you choose, the longer the life of the protection. Either Woodsheld or Butinox 1 will...

Have to agree with opps we've tested the Peelaway Stripper and it's very impressive at removing numerous coats in a clean, efficient way. Ian

Are you willing to apply a coloured finish? They last far longer!

Hope this info isn't too late. From my experience the only thing you can put over the top of liming wax is a clear wax. Osmo Hardwax Oil, is designed to be absorbed into the wood so this won't work. One thing you could try (on a inconspicous area) is to seal it in with Transeal and then...

I think with a bannister I'd be more inclined to recommend a surface coating which will repel the natural oils you find in your hands. Although Osmo Hardwax Oil is a very good product it is not a surface coating and therefore doesn't offer the same protection as say Staircase Finish This comes...

So long at the stain is a microporous exterior coating something like Butinox 1 then you'll be fine. Any other type of wood stain (which doesn't contain UV filters) will just quickly fade again. Ideally, the darker you can go with the shade the better. Ian McAslan

I think it depends on what the monetary difference is between prefinished and non-finished. You could always do it yourself? You might make quite a saving? 2 coats of shellac sanding sealer finished by a coat of Superwax would give you a stunning finish. easy to apply but quite labour...

Those are two quite different options you've listed 1) a stained oil and 2) a waterbased clear finish. In my opinion one of the best ways of staining and protecting a pine floor is to use a bound water stain something like Aquastain and then overcoat it with the Diamond Glaze or Aquacoat...

Hi Paul, hope I can help. Firstly the last point you made about the black marks there is absolutely no doubt you want to buy some oxalic acid, mix it in warm water and apply to the areas affected - it will work a treat. re: the table, firstly clean off all the grease using white spirit and...

Thanks for your replies. Mw, no I'm first floor but can get the ladder out to have a look. Woody, definitely a draught coming in , it feels more like the seals are not doing their job properly. Is there anyway of tightening the windows so that the seal is improved?

Grit 60 will certainly take a couple of mills off so this could work, obviously you'll then need to go over the surface with a grit 120 prior to overcoating with a finish Not sure the thickness of the parquet but this should also be taken into account. Hope this helps. Ian McAslan

Jonny, it looks like you've exhausted most options. You could try bleaching the floor using a single part bleaching solution for wood something like Lakeone Wood Whitener Alternatively if this doesn't work you could bleach the entire floor taking out all the natural colour using...

Danish Oil could be used but it is dependent on which brand you buy. Think you'd be better going for a Polyutehane Varnish Satin, it will bring out the natural grain of the wood and the satin produces a very subtle satin/matt looking finish. The only problem with Danish Oil and PU is that they...

We've given this a bit of thought and think the only course of action is to use a bound water stain like Aquastain. This product has been designed to spread evenly over large areas and can be used under Waterbased (which I think the Ronseal product you have is) clear coatings. You can see the...

Wonder if you can help? Just moved into a new/old flat and it has had double glazing fitted throughout. I'd hoped that our heating bills would be slashed but I'm very surprised how much of a draught comes in. Is there anyway of sorting this? Thanks for you help. Ian McAslan

You're absolutely right, sand right back to the bare wood. Once you've done this seal any oils, old waxes in by coating the floor with Transeal , this is a shellac barrier seal used commonly by flooring contractors if they think there might be some inherent problems in the grain of the wood...